Mitsubishi's A5M "Claude" was a significant development for Japanese
naval aviation being their first low wing monoplane fighter. The A5M-K
was the two seat trainer version of this aircraft which was designed by
the same team who later brought us the famed "Zero". Although esoteric
looking, the two seat Claude was produced in a somewhat significant number
(about 150 built). One probably does have to be a lover of
Japanese training aircraft in order to fully appreciate this airplane
but the training paint schemes are quite colorful.
The Kit
This kit is what I would consider an average cottage industry injection
mould. Sometimes I call these glorified vacuforms because except for sanding
out the main components, they seem similar to build. There are no alignment
pins and you typically have to do some extra detailing or modifying to
get the result you want. The detail in this kit is very nice, as Classic
Airframes
kits usually are. It's the fit and specific details that will require
a little extra attention in this kit.
If I had any major problems with this kit it would have to be the cockpit
interior. The resin detail is excellent, it just didn't even come close
to fitting in the fuselage! Both seat bulkheads were the same size even
though the fuselage tapers considerably. This means you will need to reshape
the back seat bulkhead to fit, and I mean reshape! Even after much reshaping,
my fuselage didn't want to fit together at all. Also, the kit seats are
beautifully cast in resin with the holes for weight reduction in them.
The problem is, if you look at them funny, they'll break!
If you want a real trainer, you'll want to remove the machine gun butts
from the front cockpit instrument panel. I wouldn't recommend following
the kit instructions for assembly of the interior. If you follow the kit
instructions, you will end up with a gap between the resin sidewalls and
the fuselage interior walls. It would be easier to glue the resin sidewalls
to the interior of the fuselage to ensure that they fit snug. The wings
fit together reasonably well, they didn't fit to the fuselage as well,
but it didn't require too much filling. Getting the wings, horizontal
stabilizer, vertical stabilizer and fuselage all lined up with dihedral,
and other angles correct, was a bit of a chore. You really need to take
your time lining the kit up. Again, there are no alignment pins on this
kit.
There are some other considerations if you are going to build a "true"
trainer version of the Claude. Aside from giving you a fuselage with two
holes in it and two seats and control sets, there are still things to
modify to make this a trainer. As mentioned previously, you need to remove
the gun butts from the cockpit. You also need to fill the shell ejector
holes under the wings. The trainer version did not have an arrestor hook,
so you need to remove the fairing for this under the fuselage. This will
leave a good gap to fill. The biggest modification will be the cowling.
It has cutouts in the front for the guns and cutouts in the cowl flaps
for the same reason. These need to be filled and shaped to match the contours
of the cowl. I used Tamiya epoxy putty, which made it pretty easy to do,
especially the sanding part. The trainer also had some strakes on the
rear fuselage and the instructions give you templates to make these.
One other thing to look for in this type of injection molding is panel
lines and more often the scribed line where the flaps, elevators and ailerons
are "hinged" there are "raised" line sections. I call them panel line
goobers (one of my favorite technical terms) and they are a real pain
to sand off and rescribe. My kit had about five good ones on it, the biggest
ones being between the ailerons. If I make this kit sound bad, I'm really
not trying to! As I said before, for limited run injection molding, this
is a pretty good model. The quality can always be tempered by just how
much you want the subject. I love Japanese WWII airplanes and am more
than willing to deal with some of the kit's shortcomings.
I painted the model with Polly Scale and Aeromaster acrylics. I found
that Polly Scale Railroad Utility Orange makes a great match for the Japanese
trainer orange. As per usual for me, I gloss coated the model with future
floor wax, this after highlighting each color with a whitened down version
of the base color. Then an oil wash followed by Polly Scale flat. The
windscreens were a bit hairy, especially the rear one with a huge cutout
to accommodate the "rollbar". One other slightly tricky note, the engine,
which is beautifully detailed, takes a bit of work to fit in the cowling.
Again, I wouldn't follow the kit instructions and put the engine in as
you glue the cowl together. I put the cowl together first, painted it,
and then mounted the engine to the firewall. I then slid the cowl over
the engine. This will take a bit of adjusting on the cylinder heads but
you will need to do this anyway, because the engine is a little too big
to fit in the cowl.
All in all, this is a pretty good model. It does require some extra
work but you should expect that from this type of molding. Even if you
are not an affectionado of Japanese trainer aircraft, this kit makes a
unique addition to any WWII era collection. My thanks to Classic Airframes
for this review sample!