SQL/DB Error -- [
    Error establishing a database connection!
  1. Are you sure you have the correct user/password?
  2. Are you sure that you have typed the correct hostname?
  3. Are you sure that the database server is running?
]
SQL/DB Error -- [
    Error selecting database shb1_200_1!
  1. Are you sure it exists?
  2. Are you sure there is a valid database connection?
]

Warning: mysql_error(): supplied argument is not a valid MySQL-Link resource in /home/1/c/cb/cbanyai/internetmodeler.com/public_html/Scripts/ez_sql.php on line 95

Warning: mysql_errno(): supplied argument is not a valid MySQL-Link resource in /home/1/c/cb/cbanyai/internetmodeler.com/public_html/Scripts/ez_sql.php on line 96
SQL/DB Error -- []
Trumpeter's 1/35 German E100 "Super Heavy Tank"
 

Trumpeter's 1/35 German E100 "Super Heavy Tank"
Kit # 00384

By Don Barry

Vehicle History

Conceived as an alternative design to Dr. Ferdinand Porsche's MAUS project, the E-100 was the final model in the E or Entwicklungs series, intended to rationalize German tank models. Development was started in 1943 and continued until 1944, when all super-heavy tank development was ordered halted. Work continued at a low priority until, at the war's end, a nearly completed hull was captured by the British Army, and subsequently sent to England for analysis. One option would have used the turret intended for the MAUS, mounting either a 150 or 170 millimeter main gun, and would have weighed approximately 140 tons, almost twice the weight of the Hunting Tiger. This kit uses an alternate turret design, mounting the 128 mm KwK 44 cannon, as used on the Jagdtiger. It looks like a cross between a Henschel King Tiger and a Panther II turret, all grown up. As this vehicle never made it into production, final details and paint schemes are purely conjecture.

The Kit

As stated on the box, the kit consists of 102 parts on six sprues of light gray plastic, one pair of black, banded tracks, separate upper and lower hulls and turret shell, and one small photo-etched fret containing screens for the engine air intakes and radiator fans. A twelve page, 26 step instruction booklet accompanies, being of the exploded view type, with parts called out by number and sprue letter. A single sheet, full color paint guide is provided, calling out paint numbers from the Gunze Sangyo line. Assembly looks to be straightforward from the ground up so let's get busy.

Construction

Steps 1 through 3 involves suspension components on the lower hull. There is some minor dimpling on the domed surface of some parts A-2. Fill and sand if you want, as they are on the bottom. Crank arms B-16 and 17 fit positively, allowing for easy alignment.

Steps 4,5 and 6 cover roadwheel assembly and installation. No surprises here. I jumped ahead and built the drive sprockets and idler wheels at this point, and gave them all a coat of paint.

Steps 7 and 8 cover drive sprocket and idler mounts, and the fore and aft hull extensions. I left the idler shaft loose until I could dry-fit the tracks, to avoid complications later. Putty and sand the hull extensions (parts C-22, 23, 35 and 36 to show the thickness of the hull plates.

Step 9 Build and install the drive sprockets and idler wheels. I had already done so, and then put an initial coat of my final predominant paint color on the lower hull, inner surfaces of the hull skirt sections (C-1, 2, 3, 39, and 40), drive sprockets and idlers. I added some light coats of earth colors to the hull behind the wheels before installing them.

Steps 10 and 11 - Tracks The instructions say they can be glued with plastic cement. I tried Testor's liquid cement with no effect. Super glue flaked off. I ended up using staples, notching the track cleats so they would sit flush. The joints are hidden under the front skirt sections. I installed the sprockets and idlers and let them dry before attaching the tracks, in apparent contradiction to the instructions. They are flexible enough to fit over the wheels, a little fiddly but not bad.

Steps 12, 13, and 14 cover building and mating the upper and lower hulls. No problems here, everything fits well. The photo-etched screens fit perfectly over the grates. Glue, putty, and fill seams on parts C-37 and 38 (upper hull extensions) after installation. I leave off onboard tools until final assembly, but I did remove them from the sprues and clean them up at this point. The hull halves fit very well, snapping into place. The front of the upper hull overlaps the lower, thus putting the seam on the lower plate.

Steps 15, 16, and 17 involve the rear plate assembly. It builds up quickly and fits well; no filler needed. I left the tow shackles (A-3) off until final assembly.

Steps 18 through 21 cover building the gun breech and joining the turret halves. I did not fill or sand the breech parts as they are hidden. I glued the breech assembly to the mounting arms (D-21 and 22) to stabilize the long gun. I added a small filler piece to the bottom of the gunner's sight housing to blank it off as I could see into the turret. Turret lifting lugs (B-5) were replaced with wire, and part D-14 was replaced with chain.

Step 22 involves the commander's cupola and the infrared gear. I added styrene blocks inside the periscope covers as they are open. The infrared apparatus looks good and builds up quickly. I added some fine wire for the power cables, and a piece of wire to replace D-10 (easier than cleaning it up).

Steps 23 through 25 finish the turret. The main gun assembles quickly, with the barrel halves mating well enough that no filler was needed. The barrel sleeve shows a nice cast texture, and the collar D-29 hides the barrel/sleeve joint. I installed the spare track hangers, but left off the track links. A small piece of steel tubing was substituted for the coaxial machine gun muzzle.

 

The final step, #26 covers installing the track shields. They click into place and glue on positively. Two of them were left off to show the tracks and wheels.

The paint scheme started with various shades of primer red-brown. The engine access hatch was finished in German over-all yellow, as if it came from the King Tiger assembly line. I then applied German field gray in a cloud pattern, with dark yellow accents. Discoloration and fading was limited to the primer areas, suggesting that they had been painted some time ago. The national crosses were airbrushed with a stencil. No turret numbers or other marks were used. All colors used were Tamiya acrylics, including the clear red for the infra red gear, and a blue/green mix for the periscope lenses.

Conclusion

The kit went together quickly and easily, with very little filler needed. Parts fit was crisp and positive. The only places where putty was used was on the hull extensions, which replicate the thickness of the plates. Very little flash was found. I was surprised that the tracks did not respond to the cements I tried, perhaps others would have worked. Although the vehicle as built never existed, and would have been impractical to operate, it still was an enjoyable building experience, and positively dwarfs the Panzers it sits next to. I highly recommend it to fans of "Panzerwaffe '46". I would like to thank Stevens International for the review kit.