Tristar's 1/35 Panzer I
Ausf. A
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Please read my in-box review in the May
issue of Internet Modeler. I found the model to be highly detailed,
with good fit and finish overall. With the included photo-etched parts,
and the overall level of detail, a very good representation of the vehicle
can be constructed straight from the box. I did add some parts from the
Dragon Panzer I to correct some omissions, which I will enumerate as this
review progresses. So let's get started.
Construction
Steps 1 and 2 cover assembly of the lower hull. The transmission parts
on sprue "E" fit very well. However, many of the parts suffer
from thick attachment points on the sprue, making removal difficult without
breaking. Even using the finest sprue nippers from PBL, some delicate
parts broke during removal, E-29 and 32 among them. Everything fit very
well, and the surface detail is very fine. Most painting was done after
subassemblies were completed. I jumped ahead and added the front plate,
part C-22 from step 5, to help insure that the hull sides were square
to the floor plate.
Steps 3 and 4 (4 is not numbered) deal with the suspension and running
gear. Here the sprue attachment points were delicate and easy to remove
and clean up. One piece roadwheels are included, as well as multi-piece
wheels and tires. The individual track links fit together well, requiring
minimal cleanup, and engaged the drive sprockets perfectly. The outside
of the lower hull and the running gear were painted and weathered as construction
proceeded, just to make it easier.
In step 5, I used after-market dial face decals on the driver's instrument
panel prior to installation, and subsequently noticed that they are virtually
impossible to see. Oh well... The fenders fit well, with just enough of
a locator ridge to facilitate correct placement. The fuel tanks were painted
prior to installation, and slid into place perfectly.
Engine construction takes place in step 6, and it is a beauty. Again,
delicate sprue attachment points make removal and cleanup easy, and the
fit was excellent. Detail painting and dry brushing after assembly highlighted
the excellent surface detail. I had some concerns regarding the fit of
the engine into its compartment between the fuel tanks, but it was flawless.
The engine slid into place with no coaxing, and stayed in place without
cementing. (Step 7) The ammunition and storage bins in this step did not
interfere with the test-fitting of the upper hull, part C-1, as I had
feared.
Step 8, assembling and fitting of the upper hull, was more tricky. The
radio set and stowage bins did bind on the top of the transmission, requiring
some additional work. The fitting of the rear panel, J-6, took several
dry fits to achieve a good sit. Upper hull C-1 was clamped into place
before cementing and allowed to dry thoroughly.
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Steps 9 and 10 cover the building of the engine deck, with many optional
parts for early or late versions supplied. Assembly was straightforward,
with the interior painting done before installation. I had decided to
leave all hatches and visors open to show off the interior, so these were
painted and left off till final assembly. I personally think the front
mudguards are over-engineered, with little to be gained by making them
multi-part assemblies. Some of the photo-etched pieces making up the hinge
latches taxed my ability to bend and manipulate them. I was forced to
leave off parts PE-14 as I could not hold and fold them. They are TINY!
(I also lost three of them in the process)
Step 11 covers detailing the rear plate of the hull. Here again, options
for early or late versions are given. Fit and assembly was uncomplicated,
giving good results.
Step 12 covers the building of a beautifully detailed turret. Pay particular
attention to gun assemblies A and B, as they are different and will not
fit properly if reversed. (Trust me on this one.) The commander's hatch
makes up fully one half of the roof, allowing a good look at all your
fine work. One omission on Twister's part was no interior framing or glass
blocks for the vision ports. These parts were taken from the Dragon Panzer
1 kit, and fit perfectly. I guess I'll be building that one closed up.
All interior painting was done prior to assembly.
Almost home. Step 13 covers final assembly and installation of the on
board stowage. Tools are well rendered, with a collar representing the
stowage clamps on the tools. The builder folds and adds the latch handles.
I rolled a piece of brass tubing over the muffler heat shields to curve
them, and they fit perfectly. Optional parts are found here as well, in
the form of alternate lights and horns.
As stated previously, painting was done in stages to facilitate the
process. Colors used are all Tamiya Acrylics, with the exception of some
Humbrol enamels and oil paint washes used in the interior. The overall
interior color was mixed with white, buff, and a bit of dark yellow. The
exterior is Tamiya German dark gray, with Tamiya clear gloss added (approx.
15-20 percent). This dried to a sufficiently glossy surface that decals
would lay down without silvering.
I chose to use markings for a vehicle in the Polish campaign, with the
yellow crosses used after the large white ones were found to be too good
a target. The decals were opaque, even over the dark gray base coat. They
conformed well too, with only one application of Solvaset necessary to
make them lay down tightly over the vision block covers. The entire model
then received a few light coats of Testor's Dull Coat and allowed to dry.
Next I applied a wash of Tamiya thinner and ground pastels, heavier on
the fenders and lower hull front and back, applying less the higher I
went. The thinner fixes the chalk to the finish to a much greater degree
than just applying it dry. A final light dusting of pastels completed
the project.
Final Impressions
Aside from a couple of relatively minor concerns, I greatly enjoyed
building and painting this kit. I purposely chose to model a relatively
new vehicle, thereby dispensing with a lot of paint fading or paint peels.
It's easy to overdo these effects, given the relatively short life span
of combat vehicles, and the constant maintenance they receive. The overall
fit of this kit is extraordinarily good, with only the upper hull needing
to be clamped, and this may well have been my fault. The driver's panel
and/or radio could have been slightly out of place. My only complaints
were the thick attachment points of the delicate parts on "E"
sprue, and the lack of framing around the turret vision ports, so easily
seen with that large hatch open. My sample kit required no filler putty,
a rare occurrence indeed. Due to the number of tiny components, both plastic
and photo-etched, I would most highly recommend this kit only to experienced
builders. I would like to thank MRC
for the review kit.
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