Minicraft 1/144 Boeing 737 w/
DRAW Decal Set 20/44-737-65 Alaska Air Cargo B737-400
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Introduction
Alaska Airlines recently introduced the B737-400 to their cargo operations.
The aircraft (N709AS) is a recent all-cargo conversion of one of their
passenger aircraft. This aircraft was recently supplemented by the addition
of a Combi conversion of another passenger B737-400. These newer B737s
are intended to replace the long-serving B737-200s that Alaska has been
operating for years. Thanks to the artwork of Tim Bradley, DRAW Decal
has now added this attractive aircraft to its stable of airline decals.
This sheet is one of the first releases in the new line of Digital Silk
decals from DRAW Decal. The Digital Silk printing process results in better
color saturation than older ALPS technology, a wider range of color capability,
and also produces much sturdier decals than ALPS printing. These decals
are much less susceptible to accidental scratching, and thus need no clear
coating before use. In fact, they are so rugged that a clear coat might
hinder their ability to settle down on curves or panel lines.
This decal is intended for the 1/144th scale DACO or Minicraft B737-400
kits or the 1/200th Hasegawa one. The instruction sheet provides a full
color left side profile of the aircraft. The fuselage is white, with a
medium gray underside and white engine nacelles. Wings and horizontal
stabilizers are Boeing gray on both the upper and lower surfaces (no corogard),
with bare metal leading edges. Nearly all markings and cargo doors are
included on the decal sheet. The only decals the modeler will have to
use from the kit sheet are the red engine warning stripes. As is now standard
with DRAW Decal sheets, the fuselage titles, stripes, and door outlines
are laid out on the decal sheet so as to be used as one complete piece,
ensuring proper layout and spacing. The rear cabin doors however are not
part of the main stripe section, and will need to be applied separately
(along with the U.S. flags, which are to be used as one decal with the
rear doors). These decals, like ALPS-type decals, are printed on one continuous
layer of clear carrier film, and thus, each decal element needs be cut
individually from the sheet prior to soaking in water. While these decals
are thinner than most silkscreen decals, they are tough enough to withstand
fairly rough handling (more on that later…)
The Build
This review was originally intended to be a simple decal review; however,
it evolved into a full-build article after a bit of discussion with Greg
Drawbaugh, proprietor of DRAW Decal. I was very excited to get my hands
on a set of his new Digital Silk line of decals, and the suggestion was
made that a full-build review would be a useful exercise for my dusty
modeling skills.
The pressure of meeting a publishing deadline within 7 days added to
the challenge. Fortunately, I had a couple Minicraft B737 kits that had
been started many years ago and never finished. With the parts of those
two kits, I was able to cobble together this model. When this project
began, I had one assembled fuselage, two assembled wings, two assembled
and sanded engines, and a set of painted tires. Due to time constraints,
I elected to build this kit completely OOB. I also had to cut a couple
corners that I would like to go back and fix at some point in the future.
I will limit my discussion to the finishing and decaling of this model,
as there are several sources for kit reviews of the Minicraft B737 family.
While the DACO kits are better, the Minicraft ones still build into respectable
B737s.
My efforts began with sanding the fuselage to prep it for painting.
Because of the location of the fuselage stripe on the Alaska scheme, it
is best to add the wings to the fuselage AFTER finishing the model. Fortunately,
the engineering of the Minicraft kit’s wing to fuselage joint is
top-notch, and provides a great fit, needing no filler or clean-up. Once
everything was sanded, I hit the paint shop (my back porch). The weather
cooperated, and afforded me a couple of good days for painting.
I decided to try out Krylon spray paint for the first time on this project.
After applying three coats of primer, sanding it, and then applying the
first coat of white, all in the span of 3 hours, I was hooked on Krylon!
It dries quickly, goes on smooth, and is quite tough. I did find out that
priming for it is critical. I skipped the primer coat on the engine nacelles
to cut a corner, and I paid for it later.
After the white dried on the fuselage and engine nacelles, I masked
for the medium gray lower fuselage. I ended up using FS36375 Light Ghost
Gray from the Testors Model Master line. It is close to the gray Alaska
uses, but it is probably a bit too dark.
After applying a couple brush coats, I turned to the wings, stabilizers,
engine pylons, and gear doors. All were painted Boeing Gray – my
version for this model is FS36495 Light Gray from Model Master. Again,
it isn’t 100% correct (a touch too light), but it was the best I
had on short notice. Canadian Voodoo Gray is a much closer match in the
Model Master line.
Once all my gray parts were dry, I masked for natural metal. The vertical
and horizontal stabilizer leading edges, engine nacelle cowl rings, as
well as the wing leading edge slats all received a coat of Chrome Silver.
When I removed the masking tape from the engine nacelles, I learned
the painful lesson on priming under a coat of Krylon – some of the
white lifted with the tape. After touching up the inevitable problems,
I was ready for my second new modeling experience – Future Floor
Coat.
I had purchased a bottle of Future back in the 80s, but never used it.
This project seemed like the perfect time to finally try it out. I decided
to brush the Future on, and for the most part it worked great. The only
issues you have to watch out for are bubbles getting into it from the
brushing action (particularly when the brush first makes contact with
the model, or when it is lifted), and lint or other small particles getting
in from the brush. You also have to be careful not to apply it too thick,
as it will run, or go over areas you have already covered. Otherwise,
its self-leveling properties smooth out any brush strokes, and leave a
great clear, glossy finish.
Once the Future dried overnight, I finally got to cut into the decals.
I used Micro-Set and Micro-Sol with good results, though the extra strength
of Solvaset might have been handy in a couple of places. The first decals
I applied were the Eskimos on the vertical stabilizer. They went on without
a hitch, though the toughness of the decals showed up here. They did not
want to wrap around the thick trailing edge of the tail. I had planned
on trimming the decals and then using paint to touch-up the trailing edge
anyway, so I didn’t worry about this. Solvaset would probably have
worked, for those who would prefer that course.
Next, I applied the main fuselage/title piece on the left side. I was
a little apprehensive about this piece, as I worried it would not be sturdy
enough to be manhandled into position (this being necessary because of
my rusty modeling skills). I need not have worried - the decal easily
withstood 10 minutes of wrestling with my fumbly fingers. Once in place,
it did appear to have an excessive amount of wrinkling, but within a few
hours, it had snuggled down to the point I could hardly even find the
edge of the clear carrier film.
The rest of the decals went on without much difficulty. A couple of
areas do require special care. First, the forward fuselage stripe sections
(that wrap around the radome) should really be separated into two pieces
(green stripe and navy stripe). The Digital Silk decals are stiff, and
do not like to wrap around compound curves without a bit of “coaxing.”
Not having the green pinstripe attached to the thicker navy stripe makes
this much easier.
A second area to watch is the nacelle stripe. Again, the decal doesn’t
naturally want to wrap around that curve, and needs some help. Well-placed
nips with a razor blade and liberal setting solution goes a long way here.
Finally, as with all thinner decals, any sections of striping that overlap
will have a darker opacity than those that don’t. Careful trimming
of the overlap will eliminate this (I will plead the time constraint defense
on my model…).
After adding the kit decals for the engine warning stripes, I was ready
for final assembly and a coat of Future. I attached the wings, horizontal
stabilizers, engines, gear, and gear doors with super glue. After they
dried, I applied a final coat of Future, and the beast was done!
I know my model is not perfect – far from it. My decal skills
exhibit their rustiness well. I had a hard time getting the stripes to
line up well, though this is my failing, and not the fault of the decals.
I also bungled the masking for the lower fuselage gray area at the forward
and aft ends (it curves down, instead of running parallel to the keel-line).
If I had had a bit more time, I would have filled and sanded the joint
between the engine pylon and its overwing fairing. I also would have added
a tail bumper, and VHF blade antennas. Still, I am pleased with what I
was able to accomplish in a mere 7 days. Considering that this is the
first model I have actually finished in 10 years, I am happy with it.
As for the Digital Silk DRAW Decals, they are terrific! They are very
easy to apply, and lay down very well once dry. Color opacity is great
for all the pieces. Details are clear and crisp. Best of all, they are
tough as nails. You don’t have to worry about tearing them during
application. If my wrestling didn’t stretch them or harm them in
any way, anyone can apply these decals! I whole-heartedly recommend these
decals. I can’t wait to see what DRAW Decal releases next.
Thanks to DRAW Decal for the review sample. Be sure to visit the DRAW
Decal website to see the entire line of outstanding decals.
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