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ICM's 1/35 Bergepanther (early version)
 

ICM's 1/35 Bergepanther (Early Version)

By Don Barry

Bergepanther

I suggest you read the 'in box' review of this kit for more details of kit contents. This kit is a replica of an early version of the Bergepanther tank recovery vehicle produced and used by the German army during World War II. This was a turret-less Panther tank, lacking the heavy ground spade and heavy duty winch which equipped later versions of this vehicle. It was outfitted with tow bars, a retractable jib crane which could be set up on either side of the deck, and was able to lift loads such as engines or transmissions. Other fixtures included an extra large and strong towing pintle, and provision for extra tools and equipment to tow or assist in repairing disabled tanks, as well as other vehicles.
This example was, for the most part, built box stock. Modifications/additions include zimmerit coating, engine deck vent screens, more spare track, tow cables, tools and boxes, and a figure. Most probably during handling for previous photos, or the chaos of my worktable, parts of the rigging for the crane were broken, so they were replaced with chain, nylon string, and scratch-built pulleys. Ambroid Pro-Weld and cyaonoacrylate glue were used throughout for assembly.

Construction

Steps 1 through 9, no problems encountered so far. The torsion bar arms lock positively into place, and line up well. The rubber portions of the road wheels were dinged and chipped prior to painting and installation. The hull sides behind the wheels were painted and weathered before the wheels were installed. The exhaust pipes were left off, as well as parts B-10 & 11, until the zimmerit coating was applied.
Step 10, the jack was repaired as there was a large sink mark marring the bottom. The mount was scratchbuilt from aluminum strip and Grandt line wing nuts.
Steps 11 through 14, the tow shackles were cleaned up but were left off until later. The driver's visor was glued closed, therefore the hinge mechanism was not used. The periscopes, parts A-20, fit well and look good, as did the guards over them. All the handles on the various hatches were replaced with bent copper wire.
Step 15, the driver's roof plate, part B-42, was oversized and will not fit into its opening without extensive sanding all around. I would estimate that it is at least 1/32 inch too big in all directions. One of the hatches fits wellbut the other, B-43, would drop freely through the opening if not for the hinge pivot. I glued a strip of .020 thick styrene around the inside of the opening, sanding it flush with the top after curing.
It was at this point that I installed the tracks, using the individual links supplied in the kit. The links were sprayed a dark grey-brown color while still on the sprues. When dry, they were cut from the sprues and cleaned up as needed. Using masking tape secured sticky side up, I connected enough links to reach from under the last road wheel to half way around the drive sprocket. They were glued all at once using liquid cement. When they had stiffened some, the track run was bent to shape and secured to the model with tape to finish curing. Lower runs for both sides were done in one session.
When fully dry, the runs were removed and dirtied up on their inner surfaces, then glued into place, taking care to return each to its original side. The upper track runs were treated in the same way.
Step 16, the upper hull was fitted to the lower hull. A little filing and fitting work was needed to get a tight fit. I encountered a gap behind the rearmost intake grills that needed filling with styrene strip and sanding. After this assembly was dry, I added the zimmerit coating to the hull front, sides and back. I used automotive spot putty for this. After applying a strip of masking tape to adjacent areas, the putty was spread on with a piece of X-acto saw blade, which gives the horizontal ridges. Next the back of a #11 blade was used to add the vertical lines. Using different spreading tools, other patterns can be created.
Steps 17 through 20, the tool racks B-51 and B-8 were flat sanded to thin them down, and small squares of .015 thick plastic strip added to the back to replicate the structures as seen in photos. The spare track holders A-33 received the same treatment. A track changing cable was made and wound around the jack block bracket. More than the usual complement of spare track links were added, secured with wire pins. Tool clasp handles and retainer pins were added where appropriate. The kit supplied tow cable ends were used with nylon string for a better appearance. Two gas can racks were made from thin brass strip and located where the rear stowage bins normally are located. Wedding veil material was cut to shape and installed for engine inlet and exhaust fan housing grills. Brass screen could have been usedbut I did not have any the correct gauge. A strip brass rack with two basswood unditching beams was added to the upper hull top. Mounting sockets were added to the bottom of the boom legs, and to the rear deck in the alternate location spots. As earlier noted, a new pulley assembly and rigging chain were added to the lifting boom, with a white metal pulley block at the bottom for weight to keep the new lines straight.

The kit supplied four figures in working dress; these will be used on a future project. I built and painted the figure from the Tamiya Sturmtiger kit, with a resin replacement head. I like the casual pose of this particular figure.

Painting of the upper portions began with a dark brown overall color, being sure to spray upward on the zimmerit covered areas to hide the red oxide color of the putty. Next a darker wash was applied to the zimmerited areas. A dark caramel color was lightly sprayed on next, this time only on the smooth steel areas. German dark yellow was then applied in a random, spotty fashion, making sure to allow areas of different shades to show through A highly thinned highlight color was then randomly applied, concentrating on upper surfaces. Many different shades of light and dark washes and filters were used, as was light dry-brushing in selected spots. Gas, oil and dirt colored drips, drops, spatters and smears were added where I felt appropriate. Lastly, a sparse metallic rub was applied to edges of tools, the MG-34, cables, etc.

Conclusion

My overall impression of this kit is quite favorable. Surface detail is nicely done, and fine detail touches are numerous, extending to the fine tiny wing nuts supplied for the front fender extensions and for securing the wooden cover over the turret opening, which also shows effective wood grain texturing. I found good parts fit overall, with two exceptions. I thoroughly enjoyed a break from the "big gun" subjects. This kit, for me, is well recommended, and can be built into a nice addition to any German armor collection. I would like to thank ICM for the review sample.