Pro Resin 1/72nd Curtiss P-1A w/Xtracrylix Paints
and Yellow-Wings Decals
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Background
The P-1A was an improvement over the P-1, itself being production versions
of the XPW-8B. The two major changes the P-1A had over the P-1 was the
improved D-12C engine, along with the fuselage being three inches longer.
25 were ordered, being delivered April 25, 1926 until October 5, 1926.
My research into the "Early Hawks" initially led nowhere -
aside from the one book I owned, the In Action on Curtiss Army Hawks.
However, later on in the model construction I found all references and
are listed at the bottom of this article. It just goes to show that no
matter how hard you think you've looked for references, there is always
more out there. Sure, there aren't as many references on the Curtiss Hawks
as there are for Mustangs, but by digging just about anything can be found.
The Build
There were forces conspiring against me on this build. First, I botch
the faux radiator and have to replace it with one from the F6C-2 I have.
Next, the top wing took five rounds with the airbrush before it was finally
painted - four of those five times being stripped before the next round
of paint. Finally, I had a devil of a time with the rigging. It just wouldn't
go on, no matter what happened. Someone, somewhere didn't want me to finish
this model. But I persevered - amongst much blue language!
For a detailed look at what exists in the box, be sure to visit my First
Look, back in December
2004. Yes, I do tend to take a lot of time building models. A definite
problem of mine, especially when trying to build to deadlines. Ah, well.
Construction naturally starts in the cockpit. The nice thing about the
Pro Resin Curtiss' is their complete cockpit, out of the box. Very nicely
done and nothing else needs to be added. Photoetch seat belts, photoetch
- and clear acetate - instrument panel, etc. Sure, anyone could super
detail anything, but out of the box the cockpit is more than complete.
After spraying the inside of the cockpit aluminum and gluing all parts
together the fuselage can now be assembled. Don't forget the faux radiator
grill that goes in the front of the radiator, as well as coming up with
something for the backside of the radiator. It's nothing but a "hole"
if you don't, and could be noticeable. Since I didn't have all the references
listed gathered when I started the kit, I had no idea what that area looked
like, so I glued in a piece of sheet plastic, angled up, painted black.
Good enough to hide the hole, but if you're into the details be sure to
find some pictures of this area as it is unique. Another addition I did
was to add some sheet plastic behind the holes for the exhausts. This
way I could add the exhausts during final construction without fear of
them falling into the fuselage.
Now that the fuselage is assembled, construction continues with adding
the lower wing and the tail pieces. The only trouble I had here was one
of the lower wings kept snapping off, but once I applied LOTS of CA, it
stayed in place.
Now to the painting. I used Xtracrylix for the first time, and once
I figured out it was best to use their own thinner, was glad with the
paint (XA1112 Olive Drab and XA1213 Yellow RLM 04). In fact, I plan on
purchasing more of it as I'm quite pleased with how it looks, and how
it adheres. I did prime the kit prior to painting, but that didn't seem
to matter. On those areas that I didn't thin the paint with their thinner,
it still chipped off. In fact, some of the primer chipped off as well.
What did I mention in my first paragraph? I upset one of the modeling
"gods".
Okay. Paint is on - after a few coats with the Yellow/Orange and I'm
ready to apply the decals. Words of advice: if you can, somehow, someway,
replace the Pro Resin decals. While this is quite difficult with the emblem
and letters/numbers for this particular aircraft, definitely do with the
insignia. One delay I made with this kit was waiting for the release of
the Yellow-Wings insignia decals (#72-001). I was hoping to replace both
sets of insignia decals with the Y-W examples but alas, their smallest
is not small enough for the lower wing of the Hawks. So, those were replaced
by trusty, old Micro/Superscale insignia decals. I also replaced the "U.S.
ARMY" on the underside of the lower wing with Micro/Superscale ones.
Pro Resin decals are very difficult to work with, won't conform over the
smallest bump, and are very brittle. Also, they're quite thick. I was
lucky enough that Draw Decals came to my rescue with the aircraft stenciling
on the mid-fuselage sides. Not only are the Pro Resin bad (as I mentioned
above) but the font is all wrong as well. (Thank you Draw Decals!)
The Yellow-Wing insignia decals went down wonderfully. Using my usual
method of adhering decals with Future, I was left with no visible decal
edges and they conformed to all surface irregularities. If I had to complain,
my only complaint with the insignia decals are they are just a tad translucent.
The only way I noticed this is I did my usual oil wash on all the panel
lines before adding the decals, and you can see the black oil through
the decal. Even with this, it's still not a problem as you can't see the
yellow of the wing through the insignia - just the black "panel line".
As I mentioned I did a black oil wash over most parts, plus I did a
lighter green oil drybrush over some of the raised surface details, giving
them a "highlight". I haven't finished the weathering yet, though,
as I want to use watercolor pencils to give more definition to the wings'
surfaces.
Truth be told, I used all but two parts with this kit. The two parts
I couldn't use - thanks to "hamfisted Bittner" - were the two
struts connecting the upper wing ailerons to the lower wing. I ended up
cutting these too short, so had to use Strutz! as replacement pieces.
Other than that, everything is out of the box.
I decided not to add the extra, under-fuselage gas tank for two reasons
- first, because I didn't want to, and second because I couldn't get it
to fit. When I acquired all the references, it occurred to me that the
tank didn't fit flush on the real thing, so that point is moot! Keep this
in mind when building a Hawk with the external tank.
Although I'm not 100% sure it's an accurate color, I decided to paint
the fire extinguisher (on the port side of the fuselage, right behind
the cockpit) red, primarily to add a splash of color to the olive-yellow/orange
paint scheme. I will weather it a little to tone it down, but I do think
it adds a bit of interest.
Conclusion
All in all a very decent kit, and it looks great. I've been wanting
to build a P-1/P-1A for years, and just was too lazy to cut out one of
the Rareplanes Rarebits fuselage conversions. Now I don't have to, as
the Pro Resin kit fits the bill. The Pro Resin P-1A has pushed me to build
more Curtiss Army Hawks, and once I finish the LF Curtiss Y1A-18, the
LF
P-1C is next, followed down the road by the Pro Resin Curtiss P-6E.
I want to also purchase another P-1A and finish it as a P-1 - easy to
do, as three inches in 1/72nd is practically nothing.
My thanks to Pro Resin for providing
the review kit. Thanks go to Roll
Models as well for supplying the Xtracrylix paint. In addition, I
can not leave out Draw Decal,
saving my tushy with their agreeing to print me new stencil decals. Finally,
thanks to Yellow-Wings Decals
for the insignia decals. Even with the small translucency problem, I can
whole-heartedly recommend their decals.
References
- Curtiss Army Hawks In Action, Squadron/Signal Publications
- The Official Monogram US Army Air Service and Air Corps Aircraft
Color Guide Vol1, 1908-1941. Monogram Aviation Publications
- "Early Army Hawks", Skyways No.5, Jan. 1988
- "Details - Early Curtiss Hawks", Skyways, July 1999
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