Eduard's 1/35 JagdPanzer 38(t) Hetzer (early)
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Read February's issue for a vehicle history that I wrote for an in-box
review so we'll dispense with it and get on with the buildup.
Construction
On first inspection of the instructions, you will notice that there
are no step numbers given, just part numbers for subassemblies. After
reading through the sheets, I decided to deviate from the recommended
sequence, and build the suspension and running gear first. I had grave
doubts as to the survivability of installed photoetched components when
handling the model to the degree necessary for installing those parts.
Leaf springs, swing arms, road wheels and return rollers cleaned up and
installed easily. This kit uses oval locator dimples on some components.
This gives room for adjustment of position, and also leaves room for misalignment
Be careful. After the suspension was on, I gave the lower hull exterior
a quick shot of Tamiya XF-60 Dark Yellow. The roadwheels were next, receiving
a coat of dark gray on the tire areas. I had not previously used Eduard's
wheel masks and found them a joy to use.
Either the rim or the tire can be covered, depending on which piece is
used. I covered the tire portion and sprayed the wheels with XF-60.
The engine bay assemblies were started next; engine, radiator, fuel
tanks, etc. You will find yourself working from at least 4 different sprues,
with small identifying letters. Your pattern recognition skills will be
tested. Parts fit in here is fine, no problems. I did test fit everything
just to make sure I got it right. One little glitch to note - on the firewall,
the blowtorch labeled L-11 is actually L-46, but you will notice the difference.
There is a loose addendum sheet that corrects the placement of the air
cleaner canisters. Don't misplace it because the main instructions have
them drawn with their locations reversed. I did lots of pre-painting of
components as I went along, as this area is cramped. Engine wiring, fuel
lines, etc. could be scratch-built and added according to the builder's
wishes. Fire wall details are next, including some very nice radios and
power supplies with separate plugs and high-voltage warning decals. This
area could also be wired with cables and cords.
Moving forward, the transmission assembles and installs nicely. I especially
like the included equipment stenciling; a very nice touch. It dresses
up the interior a lot. Installation of the commander's seat, fire extinguisher,
and stowage bin are next, as well as the seats for the gunner, loader,
and driver. Upon starting the ammunition racks, I noticed that some of
the main gun rounds in my sample kit suffered from mold misalignment,
requiring lots of sanding. The worst ones were omitted, 3 or 4 at most.
Transitioning to the upper hull, the choice of how to build the driver's
panel awaits. The photo-etched panel face is beautiful, but the plastic
panel and decals for the dials are very nice too. Your call. I went with
the etched panel face with printed dials behind. I did have the devil
of a time orienting the base of the upper hull ammunition rack with the
frame. I haven't used computer drawn instructions that much, and my perspective
kept shifting. I finally held the upper rack in place, and then the base
orientation made sense. One of the joys of getting old I guess. More information
stenciling here. These decals are thin, well registered, and the carrier
film virtually disappeared on a glossy background after they had dried.
Work now moves to the main gun, where choices have to be made. I had
no references advocating one version over the other, so I guess it's builder's
choice. Just be sure you pick one and stay with it. I went with version
"B" and encountered few problems. Some parts again showed evidence
of mold shift, and a slight shrinkage area on part J-1 needed filling.
Gun breech halves parts L-60 and K-16 needed filler, and the breech opening
was reamed out to ensure a true round opening. Location of part L-33 in
unclear, so I assembled the recoil guard parts J-11, J-24 and L-16 first
to better visualize where L-33 should be. When assembling the barrel,
I cut off the locator pins and gave the flat surfaces a quick pass with
a sanding stick to improve the fit. I accidentally omitted part B-24 which
goes in the rear portion of the barrel, but it doesn't seem to make a
difference. Fitting of the lower gun mount collar, parts G-1, G-21, and
D-6 is a little tricky, but does allow for gun elevation and traverse
within prototype limits. After installing the gun in the upper hull, test
fit the roof plate (part A-5) to make sure the gunsight fits through the
opening in the roof, and adjust if necessary. This test fitting also revealed
that the base of the upper hull ammunition rack hit the lower hull sponson,
keeping them from fitting properly. I used a sanding drum in my Dremel
tool to remove some of the rack base. Problem solved. The commander's
periscope/spotting scope assembly is quite delicate; you may wish to assemble
it now, and leave it off till later. Upper and lower hulls were joined
at this time, followed by installation of photo-etched parts PE-4 and
PE-5.
I now shifted my attention to the tracks. Most of the track pieces in
my sample kit had flash extending above the sprocket tooth openings which
needed removing. After clean up, they were prepainted. I then started
with the long run on the bottom, worked up and around the idler wheel,
across the top, finishing by wrapping the links around the drive sprocket,
which I left loose until this assembly to ensure proper meshing of teeth
to track. My example needed one less link than stated, so I left off one
of the ten shown at the front.
Exterior details were addressed next. The tools were prepainted, the
jack assembled and set aside. I replaced the supplied cotton string with
nylon kite string for the tow cables, as it is not fuzzy and retains a
slight sheen when painted. I opted to use the photo-etched tool box and
I'm glad. It is a sweet piece. Bent copper wire was used in lieu of the
supplied plastic pieces for all the hatch handles. I added the front and
rear fenders, external roof machine gun mount and shield, and all other
external parts that would receive the base color of dark yellow, with
the exception of the side skirts and mounting brackets. They were painted
separately and installed later. I intended to show all the hatches open,
so they were lightly tacked in place with tiny dots of white glue. This
ensures that they don't shift during painting, but are easily removed
afterward.
Exterior painting started with a coat of Tamiya XF-60 Dark Yellow. Next
the central portions of each panel were highlighted with a coat of Dark
Yellow lightened with XF-57 Buff and XF-2 Flat White, heavily diluted,
sprayed in thin, light coats, and allowed to slowly build up to the desired
shade. When fully dried, the side skirts were installed. I decided to
re-create the "squiggle" camouflage pattern as shown on vehicle
number 114, Czechoslovakia, May 1945. I used thinned XF-64 Red Brown and
XF-58 Olive Green with a small amount of XF-61 Dark Green added. This
was allowed to dry for 2 full days. Two coats of Tamiya Clear Gloss were
applied and allowed to dry for 24 hours. Decals were applied using Micro
Set and Micro Sol, and they laid down beautifully. The Balkan cross and
vehicle number are one large decal, making spacing and placement easy.
When fully dried, Tamiya Clear Gloss was reapplied over the decals, again
using two coats. This blended the edges of the decals and made them virtually
disappear. After the gloss had dried, washes of thinned oil paints were
applied next, with the excess being easily removed from the glossy surface.
Several light coats of Testor's Dullcoat were dusted on till the desired
flatness was achieved. Tools and tool clamps were installed next. I especially
like the one-piece tools holder/handle etched parts.
Dry-brushing, paint chips and scratches, rust and dust effects were added,
and I called this one done.
Conclusion
Simply stated, I loved building this kit. There were some shortcomings,
as with every kit I've ever built, but they were minimal. I have heard
a few complaints about the suggested price of this kit. If you wish to
show a Hetzer closed down, or with one figure in a hatch, this might be
a concern. If, however, you wish to show any level of interior detail,
and leave hatches open to show it off, this is the kit for you. To approach
the level of interior detail provided in this kit with after market products
would easily double the cost. Fit and finish was good to very good and
aside from the places mentioned, no filler was needed. The decals were
thin and well registered, with the white portions opaque enough to not
let the base color show through. The interior stenciling and labels is
really a cool touch, as these are somewhat hard to find, and are most
often generic in nature. With the building options, photo-etched parts,
wheel masks, nicely detailed interior, and 4 crew figures (which I have
not started yet), you get a lot of kit for the money. I strongly recommend
this kit, and extend my sincere thanks to Eduard for graciously providing
my sample. I look forward to seeing the late version Hetzer they are producing
next. My sincere thanks to Eduard
for the kit. Happy modelling.
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