Skif 1/72nd T-26 "Model 1933"
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History
Taken from the instruction sheet.
 The
T-26 (T-26RT) infantry tracking tank, version 1933, was created as a result
of updating the T-26 two-turret tank, version 1931. The tank had an enlarged
cylindrical turret which was somewhat shifted to the left on the body.
A 45 mm gun and a 7.62 mm DT twin machinedun were installed in the turret.
There was room for a tank commander and a gun layer in the turret. The
tank was equipped with an intercom for inter-communcation. The next modifcation
had a short-wave radio station for the communcation between crews, with
a handle antenna being located on the turret (T-26RT). The OT-130 flame-throwing
tank and a series of self-propelled guns were created on the basis of
this tank. The tanks of these modifications, version 1933, fought in Spain,
in the balle of Khalkin-Gol in Mongolia, in Finland in 1940, and on the
fronts of World War II in 1941-1945. There were approximately 6000 tanks
manufactured of this type between 1933 and 1940.
 These
first versions of the T-26 were the last that Skif made in 1/72nd. Basically
what happened was that Skif only does 1/35th, and their 1/72nd line is
what has "become" Unimodel, or UM. I think there were four Skif
T-26s, but there are more from UM.
The Kit
The biggest difference between the Skif and UM kits are the inclusion
of some parts, and the absence of others. UM replaced some of the photoetch
pieces with plastic ones, the fenders. Unfortunately the photoetch is
difficult to work with, as it appears to be nickle. So, having fenders
that you bend into shape made out of this material is a bad idea. The
plastic UM fenders are a lot easier to work with, although appear a little
more thick.
 Assembling
the Skif (and for the most part UM) T-26s goes relatively easily. I found
problems with some gaps where the upper hull meets the lower. If not careful
dealing with this seam results in the removal of rivets.
Not necessarily a problem, but assembling the main running gear is a
chore. Each wheel consists of two pieces, each "bogies" consists
of two two-wheel assembly, and each larger unit consists of two "bogies".
So, that's 8 wheels per assembly, or 16 wheels per side. Take your time
and everything will work. Also, I didn't glue the bogies to the assembly,
nor did I glue the assembly to the hull. That works great when trying
to get all the wheels to touch the ground.
 As
I mentioned earlier UM replaces the Skif photoetch fenders with plastic
ones so I robbed a set from one of the UM T-26s I had. In addition, I
also took the large engine "vent" (I don't know exactly what
to call it, but it rests above the engine and there are two variants)
from a Mirage kit. The Skif/UM one is relatively solid while the Mirage
"vent" appears more like the real one.
Another item worth replacing are the rubber-band tracks Skif provides.
They're not very realistic and difficult to work with. Since Part released
photoetch ones awhile back, I decided to use these. I'm glad I did, but
they're tedious to work with. First you need to fold the tracks in four
places (to give them depth and put the teeth up) and then you can work
them with the wheels, and put sag in. Another difficult aspect of adding
these tracks was trying to remove the teeth from the photoetch parts of
the drive sprockets. Unfortunately you can't fit the tracks unless you
do. A daunting task to add the photoetch tracks, but I really like how
they like now that they're done.
 One
more extra item I thought the kit needed was one more "bracket"
on the fender. According to drawings and photos I've seen, there is one
"bracket" leading from the fender to the rear-facing "vent"
on the rear of the hull (step 6 in the instructions). This time I robbed
photoetch from another Skif model. Somehow I'll have to figure out what
to do with all the pieces not used of the robbed kits.
One last items I did was drill out various aperatures. The front of
the horn, the muzzle of the main gun, and the exhaust. In order to get
the correct angle of the exhaust I first started with a knife to start
the hole, then used a small Dremel bit to get the correct angle and shape.
 Painting
was accomplished with Testors Model Master Acryl, Soviet Armor Green.
I then lightened between the "panels" by spraying lightened
paint and added an oil wash to darken things up. Both came out a bit harsh
so I oversprayed the entire kit with light mists of the original color.
Worked well I think.
Conclusion
It took a few years to get there, but it's finished. Dealing with the
gaps (some self inflicted) put me down enough that I wanted to throw the
kit away. However, I persevered and finished it after all - and finally.
It was a good experience and overall I like how it turned out.
 I
have yet to work on a Mirage T-26 so I can't comment on how the two compare.
Until that time I can recommend the Skif/UM T-26s, as long as you understand
it's not a "shake-and-bake", easy to build type of kit and will
require modeling skill.
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