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Detailing Huma's 1/72 Fieseler Fi 5 Sportplane
 

Detailing Huma's 1/72 Fieseler Fi 5 Sportplane

By Tracy Hancock

History

Gerhard Fieseler was a World War 1 fighter pilot with Jasta 25 on the Macedonian front, achieving 19 confirmed aerial victories. After the war he served as an instructor, then manager for the Raab Katzenstien aircraft company until its demise, after which he founded his own company, FieselerFlugzeugbau, in 1930. Winner of the 1932 European Aerobatic Championship he also won 1934s World Aerobatic Championship, flying the Fieseler Fi 2 Tiger, a one of a kind biplane designed and built by his company. At this event he witnessed the deaths of two of the other pilots as well as several crashes and he retired from competitive aerobatics afterwards.

Buit in 1934, the Fieseler Fi 5 was among the company's most popular designs and was powered by the Hirth HM 60, then the more powerful Hirth HM 60R engine. Similar in appearance to the inherantly stable Klemm Kl 25, the Fieseler Fi 5's shorter wings resulted in very different handling characteristics that experienced pilots preferred.

The Kit:

My first impression upon opening the medium sized box of the Huma Fieseler Fi 5 was one of surprise, the small sprue of parts, decal sheet and instructions occupying very little of the box. As the Xacto blade in the photo of the kit's contents shows, the Fieseler is quite a small kit but is fairly accurate and a good starting point for a more detailed model. The wings, elevators and landing gear are all given as solid parts while the fuselage is provided in two halves.

The wings and elevators have nice trailing edges and the kit as a whole was nicely molded and relatively flash free. The cockpit is pretty sparse with only a floor, seats, control sticks and two pilot figures to obscure what is lacking. A cover for the front cockpit is provided, but this seems to have only been used on aircraft used for acrobatics and on one advertising aircraft. Dry fitting of the parts showed little in the way of construction problems.

The decals are nice and provide markings for two machines in overall RLM 05 Cream, one a participant in the 1935 Deutschlandflug, an annual German air rally. This aircraft, D-EZEF, was an entry from the DLV-Ortsgruppe Danzig (B1), one of the many regional flight schools which evolved into the fledgling Luftwaffe, and makes for quite a colorful option.

Construction:

To do a good job of this kit the first thing to do is round up some reference material and this actually proves to be one of the biggest challenges of building this kit. For whatever reason this aircraft is very poorly documented, with only 25 or so photos found after many hours online, but what I did find proved to be very helpful. Unfortunatly no cockpit photos were found but the written material provided with the kit states that the fuselage was a fabric covered metal tube construction so I used photos and drawings of other German lightplanes of the period to approxomate some structural bits for the cockpit. These were added from stretched sprue after the cockpit sides were painted with Polly Scale Dirty White to represent the linen covering.

Bulkheads and a new cockpit floor were also fabricated at this time to replace the overly thick kit floor and to cover the locating stubs once the wing was installed. Dirty White was also used as a base for the wood effect in these areas, with Tamiya Clear Yellow and Clear Orange applied afterwards, but both seemed too bright to accuratly represent wood. Since then I have read that adding Tamiya Smoke to either of these will produce a nice result and I will try this in the future, but here I applied some thin Transparent Earth Red oil paint and was satisfied with the result.

While this was drying I returned to sprucing up the cockpit, adding throttle quadrants from the Tom's Modelworks German Interior set, with a small dollop of yellow oil paint added to simulate the handles and monofilament for the throttle cables. Rudder pedals from the Tom's Modelworks set were painted black and added, as well as new control sticks made from stretched sprue with the tops flattened by touching them to the hot bulb of my desk lamp. None of this is completely accurate, but adds some much needed detail to this area.

One area which I was never able to resolve to my satisfation were the seats, German aircraft of the time used several different types of seats, none of them resembling the bulky items included in the kit. In the end I did compromised on this and cleaned up the kit seats, raised them off of the floor with some streched sprue rails and painted them leather with metal framework. Another bit of speculation on my part were the seatbelts, added again from the Tom's Modelworks set. Since this was an acrobatic aircraft I opted for the four point restraints.

The kit supplies the instrument panels as decals, which from what I can see in some of the close up photos I found online, seem to be accurate. I painted the kit's instrument panel parts a dark grey and applied the decals, then added bezels made using Philippe Spriesterbach's technique

To secure these without obscuring the dials I coated the instrument panel with Future and set the bezels in this. Once dry a dull coat was applied to the panel and Future was then added to the inside of the bezels to represent glass. I feel like this came out particularly well and really adds to the look of the cockpit.

After detailing the cockpit I drilled a small hole for the exhaust and epoxied a small tube in place for this, using a photo of a Klemm Kl 25 with the same engine for a placement guide.

At this point the fuselage halves were glued together and set aside. While no engine is provided the cowling openings are large enough that something should be done in this area. I painted the interior of the forward fuselage and cowl in dark grey and used a pair of 1/35th scale binoculars for the engine. These were painted black and wire was added to represent pushrods, the whole assembly was then epoxied into place to ensure a permanent bond. The completed cowling was then mated to the fuselage and a few swipes with a sanding stick had me in good order to move on to the wings.

A feature of many of the competition lightplanes of the '30s were folding wings, allowing the aircraft to fit through an opening of a specified size as part of the competition guidelines. The Fieseler's wing folded just past the wing root, where the leading edge begins to sweep back. The wing was constructed around two wooden spars and was ply covered to the rear spar on the top and to the front spar on the lower surfaces. The remainder of the wing, including ailerons and flaps, was fabric covered.

Having a good plan that shows many of these details, the appropriate panel lines were added and some of the fabric representation sanded away to correct the surfaces of the wing. Once this was done it becomes clear that Huma have the landing gear placement holes located on the folding portion of the wings, these need to be relocated to their proper place on the wing root just forward of the front spar. I initially drilled the new holes incorrectly, visible in the construction photos, but I later redrilled them in their proper locations before attaching the landing gear and painting the model.

One item - a strip seen in photos on the leading edge just as it sweeps back, possibly to adjust the wing incidence - was added by careful sanding.

Careful examination of all of the available photos showed five actuators for the flaps and ailerons of each wing. Wanting to model the aircraft with the control surfaces slightly displaced I drilled holes for the actuators in their proper locations on the wing and control surfaces and began to scribe the line between the two in the hopes of being able to simply bend them to a displaced position. This was not to be however, as Huma's soft white plastic is not very flexible and the result was that both flaps and one aileron broke free. I re-attached these with pins made from stretched sprue and displaced the surfaces afterwards by running a bit of glue into the joint, softening the sprue pins to allow movement while bonding the control surfaces back to the wing at the same time.

Once this little folly was corrected I could go back to addressing the actuators, each made from two pieces of stretched sprue, paying careful attention to their angles. The outboard aileron actuators were more traditional hinges and were made from wire bent to the proper shape. One last bit of detail added to the wings was a wingwalk added to the port wing root from 3 lengths of, you guessed it, stretched sprue.

Turning back to the fuselage, I scribed into the cowl cheeks on both sides of the cowling to add a bit of depth and added fuel and oil hatches in front of the cockpits using plastic card sanded to a good thickness. A feature of Fieseler's with the Hirth HM 60 R engine was a small raised square cover on the upper port cowl which Huma give as a scribed box; since I was modeling an aircraft with the HM 60 I filled this area, but those modeling the kit aircraft should fabricate this raised cover. I also scribed lines for an additional panel from the cowling to the front cockpit and added rivit detail to all of the panels. A hole for the starter crank was added in the upper port side of the cowling and a small luggage hatch was scribed in behind the rear cockpit on the port side.

When researching a project I collect as many photos as I can find, even of wrecked aircraft, as these sometimes contain details of areas that are hidden in most photographs. One such photo of a Fieseler which has nosed over shows stitching along the bottom of the fuselage where the fabric meets. I used stitching from two sets of Tom's Modelworks German Interior photo etch, attaching these by laying them into a pool of Future.

Aside from the landing gear location, the only other major problem found with the Huma Fieseler is the placement of the horizontal tail surfaces, these sitting too far back. To remedy this, the notch in the fuselage provided for the tailplanes was extended forward roughly 5/16" until the leading edges of the fin and horizontal tail surfaces corresponded. Since this part is now being fitted to a wider part of the fuselage there are some minor adjustments that will have to be made to allow a good fit. Once installed the gap behind the tail surfaces must be filled.

To replicate the rudder hinges I made corresponding cuts in the fin and rudder with a razor saw and added a bit of card. A larger bit was added at the bottom and shaped to become the control horns and the rudder was then attached.

Another detail gleaned from the photo of the nosed over Fieseler was the location of the support struts for the horizontal tail surfaces; these were added from stretched sprue.

At this point the wings were added, these fitting snugly, leaving only the landing gear and fiddly bits left to attach.

Huma provides the oleo, spats and wheel as one piece, but the wheels seemed a bit undersized to me so I replaced them with a wheel from the spares box, cut in half and sanded down. This is a real nit pick and the kit items will likely be fine for most modelers. The landing gear was installed and the model was ready to be painted.

I deviated from the normal RLM 05 Cream, instead using Floquil Old Silver to represent the doped fabric that covered the majority of the airframe I was modeling. Citadel Mithril Silver acrylic was used on the aluminum cowl and landing gear and the tail was masked off and painted white.

The prop was wooden with a protective fabric covering and was painted Old Silver at the same time as the airframe. The fabric covered portion was masked and the other areas sprayed with a dark wood mixture. The real propeller was attached by six bolts and the appropriate prop boss was selected from the Tom's Modelworks set, painted and installed using Future as a clear cement.

The wheels and tailskid were painted and installed and I was ready to begin adding the decals.

Included in the reference material I found were photos of a sivler doped Fieseler, D-2538, taken from almost every angle, including a photo of the aircraft when it was involved in a competition of some type and wore the number '32' on the tail. I have yet to discover which competition this was, but the photo shows a Percival Gull Four wearing the number '31' on it's tail directly behind the Fieseler and a DeHavilland DH 84 Dragon 2 behind the Percival. Since this Fieseler had not yet been painted in RLM 05 and because the registration still contained numbers, I estimate this photo to be from very early 1934. These are all of the clues I have, if anyone knows which competition this could be, please let me know.

Even though we builders of 20s and 30s aircraft try to avoid the common silver paint scheme, this silver Fieseler was unique and I had so much good reference for this particular aircraft that I decided that this was the one I was going to model.

Using the photos I was able to determine that the registration was carried on the top and bottom of both wings and the fuselage sides, as well as the number '32' on both sides of the tailfin. Once a font and size were determined the decals were printed using Micro-Mark's laser printer decal sheets. I will confess here that the font I used on these decals is not a perfect match, but is very close. The decals came out well and went on without the need for any decal solutions.

One marking which I omitted was the Fieseler logo, a stylized white "F" in a medium blue circle, which should be on the fuselage sides just under the forward cockpit. While not present on all Fieseler aircraft, I do see it in my reference for this aircraft but am unable to reproduce this in color at this time.

From the kit I used one of the two sets of data stencils provided. According to German regulations these stencils, which included the name and address of the owner of the aircraft, its weights and maximum occupancy, and dates of last and next inspections should be located on the port fuselage side below and just in front of the tailplane. I also used the kit's propeller logos. The kit decals are very good, but should be set into a pool of water or Future as they had a tendancy to stick where they landed otherwise.

The kits windscreens are fine, being commendably thin, but I lost no time in misplacing one. Using the other I made new ones from clear plastic sheet and added them. The rudder control cables and tail rigging were next and the installation of the prop finished things off.

Conclusions:

I really enjoyed this kit, it is simple and toylike out of the box, but the fit was good and only two real problems were found. A bit of extra attention in the cockpit and to some of the missing external details really improves the look of things.

Things I Missed:

One thing I noticed after a discussion on the topic with my fellow modelers was that landing gear should be a bit compressed by the weight of the aircraft. In looking more closely at my references I can see that the nose of my model is a bit too high and my replacement wheels should have been sanded down a bit more. Some small adjustments could have also been made to the height of the wheel spats where they join the oleo.

Another point which should be addressed by any modeler who wishes to build this kit is the top and bottom of the engine cowl; Huma give these as raised areas like the cowl sides, but references show these to be flush with the adjacent aluminum panel on the fuselage. The lower third of the cowl opens like a jaw, with a piano hinge at the rear; this hinge would be easy to add from a bit of stretched sprue. The upper panel line on both sides of the cowling should, in fact, be piano hinges as well and could be added if one was so inclined.

Were I to do it all over again, I would also add hinges to the elevators in the same manner that I did to the rudder.

Undoubtedly, the longer I look at this model the more things I will see, but these are the points I have noticed thus far. I feel that should anyone use my model as reference it is important to point out areas that can be improved upon.

I would like to thank all of my friends on the Wings of Peace list for their encouragment, as well as Roger Holden specifically for his help. A big 'thank you' goes to local modeling chum Lee Kolosna for the use of his Floquil Old Silver and for printing the decals for me.