Roden 1/48th Gloster Gladiator MK. II By Rick Geisler

A Deliberately Brief History

The Gloster Gladiator II was the last in a successful line of biplane fighters including the Grebe and Gauntlett. The last front line biplane fighter in service with the RAF, obsolete at the outbreak of WWII , the Gladiator was forced to soldier on in most theaters of operations. The Gladiators’ use in the defense of Finland and Malta is legend. Less known and less documented is the use of the Gladiator II by 247 squadron, RAF during the Battle of Britain! This is , of course the squadron and aircraft I chose to model.

The Roden Kit

Roden has issued this aircraft in three versions, the Mk. I, Mk. II, and the Sea Gladiator. The basic components of all three kits are the same; the Gladiator II contains extra parts for the three blade prop, skis, and a survival pack for ditching at sea. Also included is a late style windscreen.

Moldings are generally very crisp, with flash found on the three piece cowling and the cockpit area. Sink marks are evident on the fuselage relative to the interior framing and on the on the wings relating to the Aileron wells. Wings are well molded with thin trailing edges. Fuselage ribbing is well done! No starving cow effect here! The kit does have some issues which will be mentioned during the build portion of this article. Having read some negative comments relative to the Roden kit I was determined to build it out of the box. I managed to keep AMS under control and only strayed with the cockpit interior!

Engine and Cowling: Step 1

Roden begins with the construction of the three piece cowling. I assembled the cowling using tube glue carefully aligning the outside edges. I then filled and sanded both the interior and exterior joints. The interior is not as critical as one might think as the engine and exhaust stubs cover most of this area. Remember that the cowl ring is actually the exhaust collector and must be painted a burnt metal color. This requires a very smooth surface so use of a Cyanoacryllate is recommended as a filler. The engine is fairly well represented with crisp detail on the cylinders. I found that when the ring containing the push rods was installed the engine would not fit through the rear cowling opening. I shaved the ends of the Push rods to about .020 thickness. This allowed the engine to slide into place. I painted the engine Testors Metalizer Burnt Iron, dry brushed with Steel and Aluminum. A wash of Black and Burnt Sienna Oils completed the painting of the Engine. Do not glue the engine to the cowling at this point as the painting of the exterior of the cowling is much easier if left separate.

Note: If one is looking to enhance this kit, replace the push rods with the material of your choice. Engine details are also included on the Eduard and Part photo etched sets.

Cockpit Interior: Step 2

Next up for assembly is the Cockpit interior. The kit supplied interior is adequate for a closed canopy aircraft. Add an appropriate harness and paint as directed. A friend of mine was ordering from Squadron and offered to add the True Details Gladiator II cockpit interior for me, so I opted for the update! The interior is not the typical True Details “Shake and Bake” tub. The framework is tricky to trim from the pouring molds, ( I broke 2 frames during this process). I assembled the cockpit per instructions. The fit was not the best I have encountered in resin interiors! I found it necessary to insert the lower wings into the fuselage while assembling in order to ensure that the framework did not foul the fit of the wings. In the end I had to trim a small piece from the wing locating tabs to clear the ammo box. The map case was indicated as being located on the port fuselage side. The interior photo of the Glad. II in the Squadron, “ Gladiator in Action” book clearly shows this on the Starboard forward fuselage. If installed per instructions the Map case interferes with the fit of the Lever mounted on the Port framework. I chose to use the True Details instrument panel painted Satin Black, with Gloss Black Dials and white details. The kit panel could be very effective if one substitutes Reheat or similar dial decals for the kit dials which did not fit or adhere. The closing of the fuselage is a problem. True Details would have you Slide the Machine Guns into place and then “clamshell” the instrument panel. This proves to be difficult if not impossible! I chose to cut off the right Barrel, close the fuselage in the normal manner, adding the barrel to the outside after assembly.

Note: If you are using the TD interior I would suggest gluing the Side frames to their respective locations using the rear bulkhead as a guide. Install the Machine guns, and align the floor to fit , gluing it to one side. Assemble the fuselage in the normal manner.

Interior colors consisted of British Interior Green( Poly Scale) and Aluminum framework. Knobs and levers painted as per instructions. Weathering with Artists oils of Burnt Sienna, Burnt Umber and Black

Rigging Prep: Step 3

Rigging preparation was the next step in my build. I chose to try a method I had wanted to experiment with for some time. In the past all of my rigging was accomplished with Heat Stretched Sprue. With this build I decided to use structural Rigging with Monofilament. Therefore I began drilling tiny little holes in all of the proper location. .Roden makes this easy as most of the rigging attachment points are indicated with raised plastic “Pips” or bumps. I must say that I went through quite a few drill bits, #79, breaking many! Thanks to Ira and Mac for the quick resupply! I did say most locations are indicated as there are some missing. Only one set of Ailerons has the locations marked, and on my kit the rear location on the fin is not represented.

Note: If using HSS or Steel wire, prepare your kit per your preference!

Lower Wing and Strut Assembly: Step 4

The next step is assembling the lower wings, tail surfaces, landing gear legs, and struts. Take care in aligning the lower wings as fit of struts and their subsequent alignment with the upper wing are based on this assembly. Glue on the Landing gear legs. These parts have significant sink marks and mold seems to deal with. The separate control surfaces require tweaking to get them to fit. I believe that the Aileron part numbers are reversed. This is not a big deal as the fit will show you the way! The struts were then installed with Styrene cement ( I wanted to be able to maneuver after installation) and the model turned upside down to align the struts to the locating holes on the upper wing. Everything lined up well with all struts being the proper length.

Note: The Cabane struts are too narrow in chord! If you are superdetailing use Airfoil shaped strut material, Strutz, or your choice to form your own. As the length is true use the kit supplied struts to form your replacements. It has also been suggested that the Interplane struts are too narrow. I did not see this as a problem, use your own judgement!

Camouflage and Markings: Step 5

As stated earlier I chose to do an Aircraft of 247 Squadron R.A.F. The Roden kit supplies a scheme for this squadron but I had reservations about the scheme as presented for the time frame.( Black and White undersides). Using two non primary sources (no pictures) , The Aeromaster instructions (downloaded from their web page), and Battle of Britain Aircraft (Argus Books) I chose my scheme. I Painted the model Dark earth, Dark Green, and Sky. The pattern was somewhat sketchy as no Starboard side pattern was indicated. I finally decided on a modified Munich crisis camouflage pattern seen in Camouflage and Markings (Ducimus). I used Polyscale, Tamiya, and Testors Acrylics, Varying the shades of color to give the Aircraft a worn re- painted look. .I chose to use a method of masking I had not used before, Silly Putty! This works great for a Hard Line demarcation! Roll it out, shape it to the desired pattern, and spray the next color. No lifting of previous colors, no mess, and reusable! At this time I installed the upper wing. The struts aligned well, and no problems were encountered. No jig was used in construction. After a coat of Future I began to decal. Having been warned in advance of the now infamous Roden Decal problems, I pre coated the decals with Micro Scale Decal Film. Next the Port Roundel and Fin stripe were applied. These were not lying down as well as I am used to, so I cut, sliced, and diced. After this and several coats of setting solution the Decals were beginning to adhere to the surface detail. I next soaked the Starboard Roundel. When I removed it from the backing it shattered! Now I was faced with a dilemma. No Roundels in my spares box would match the decals already applied. I tried to strip the decals taking off paint in the process. (At least we know they will adhere once down). The repair involved sanding with 400, and 600 grit wet or dry, moving on to 1000, 6000, and 8000, polishing cloths. After a repaint and a small correction to the camo, I began the search for the Aeromaster Decals. These were generously supplied by a WW1 list member! (Thanks Jim) The Aeromaster sheet supplies N2308, coded HP -B as one of its options. This aircraft is pictured in the “Gladiator in Action” book still carrying the codes of its’ previous owners. All went well with this decaling experience. With minor slicing and setting solution the decaling of the fuselage was completed. Note: Definitive Camouflage schemes for these aircraft are hard to come by. I used what I considered to be a reasonable choice! Other opinions may vary.

Rigging: Step 6

Once the decals were dry I began the rigging process. I chose to use Heat Stretched Sprue for the bracing wires between the Cabanes and the Interplanes. All of the major rigging was Monofilament and Tapered Fly Fishing leader. Using the pre- drilled holes I attached the wires to the undersurface of the Upper wing with superglue. When dry the wires were fed through the lower wing and secured with a drop of Superglue. to the underside. This dries quickly and it is an easy matter to slice off the excess wire and glue. A light sanding and you are good to go.Touch up the paint where necessary and Gloss and decal the wings. Next up is the Stiffener?, Spacer for the rigging wires. Yet another WW1 list member suggested plastic rod grooved to sit over the wires. This came out OK, not perfect because of My inability to judge the Angle of the wires !I also used rod that was perhaps 2 sizes too large in diameter.( It looked good when I started). More practice will be required to perfect this feature. Many Good modelers have simply left them off. Note: The actual wire on the Gladiator was Airfoil shaped or Flat wire. Aeroclub makes Stretchy Rigging wire I am told works well for this purpose.

Final Assembly: Step 7

Final assembly included adding the Step, Fin mounted Antenna Mast, the step on the Fuselage, and Antenna wires. The cowling and exhausts were also permanently mounted at this time. Canopies were attached using white glue .Fit of the rear canopy is not good. I plan on replacing mine with one from Squadron so I sanded the rear section slightly on the lower sides. This improved the fit allowing the Sliding center section to fit properly in the open position.

This kit builds into a nice replica out of the box .Items needing attention for a more accurate Gladiator include:
1. Engine Push Rod assembly
2.Cowling
3. Fuselage should have a Rectangular opening for the Elevator Control Rod.
4. Cabane struts need to be wider in chord, and have a mount to the upper wing similar to the Interplanes.
5. With open canopy and access doors a more detailed interior is a must. Eduard, Part, and True Details all make updates. The Photo Etched sets also contain a myriad of other detailing parts.

In conclusion I would I have read statements that the old Pyro/Impact/Lindberg kit is a better build. IMHO if the modeler takes the time and effort necessary to bring the old kit up to todays molding standards, ( and correct some of the same problems amongst others), into the Roden Glad you will have a SHOWSTOPPER! Thanks to IM, Roden, and Matt for giving me the opportunity to build this kit.

References: Battle of Britain Aircraft; Argus 1990
The Gloster Gladiator in Action; Squadron/Signal
Camouflage and Markings; Doubleday 1971, or Ducimus 1970-1971