Roden 1/48th Fokker D.VII (Fokker-built Early) By Ken Schmitt

History

So much has been written and discussed about the Fokker D.VII many modelers may think to pass it by. Recent research provides for a new look at this famous aircraft, its subtleties and large number of variants. It's not your grandfather's D.VIIF…

By 1917, with the arrival of several superior Allied aircraft, Albatros D.III, V, Fokker Dr 1 and Pfalz D.III fighters were increasingly outclassed. Superiority had passed from German pilots back to Allied pilots. With few exceptions, many top aces began clamoring for something with which to regain their competitive edge. The German Air Service directed firms to prepare new designs for a fighter competition to be held at Aldershof in mid-January, 1918. Many top scorers were invited to test-fly and appraise all entrants to the comp. Criteria was based on the venerable 160-hp Mercedes D.III in-line engine. Observant designers sought to circumvent Germany's by-then restricted resources and construction methods with expedient construction and materials. Fokker chose steel tube, thick cantilever wood laminate wings and in some cases, aircraft driven by rotary engine. In all, 28 types were tested. Manfred von Richthofen's preferences weighed and swayed designers and pilots, alike. His choice was enthusiastic and decisive: Anthony Fokker's V.11 prototype, the soon-to-be D.VII. Taking MvR's comments into consideration, modification was made to ensure directional stability and address some other concerns. An initial order of 300 D.VIIs was placed with Fokker's firm, located at Schwerin, to begin production. Additionally, orders were also placed for 600 machines from each Albatros factory at Johannisthal and its subsidiary, Ostdeutche Albatros Werke at Scheidemuhl. Johannesthal machines were designated D.VII(Alb) and those from the Scheidemuhl D.VII(OAW).

It is here that many of the subtle variations in this aircraft initiated. All three firms went from Fokker plans and methods but were at liberty to modify anything felt to be less than optimum. Many field modifications occurred as well, notably, the amount of heat generated by the engine necessitating revised engine panels, removed engine panels, wing axle modification for ease of maintenance and so forth. In the summer of 1918, many pilots began removing the top engine panels due to the heat of the engine compartment cooking off rounds in ammunition canisters. All three firms continued to modify right up through the BMW-engine D.VIIF, the final mark, at which point general standardization was achieved.

Early D.VII's were streaked throughout, including flying surfaces and typical Fokker Turquoise underneath the fuselage. The first dozen or so had the older Eisencruz rather than the newer standardized Balkencruz. Struts were finished in light grey. Engine panels were either left metal at the factory or painted Fokker Drab. Shortly after the first batch of fifty machines, four color lozenge printed fabric was used for covering all flying surfaces, yielding to five color in the mid-200's, returning to four color in the series designated 7700+. Most all fuselages were covered in lozenge printed fabric after approximately the #400 batch.

German pilots would once again have an aircraft equal to their task and the Allied challenge.

The Kit

Roden has achieved an excellent representation. Looking at various sources, one notes they've managed to include and detail every signature feature of this unique aircraft. It compares to any datafile with near-perfect accuracy. The two wings, particularly the top wing, are beautiful. The office is as busy as it needs to be and everything that was there is there. The cockpit, in itself, is a pleasurable build. The engine detail is exemplary. The struts are the correct profile and suitably delicate, as photos of this plane show. An early radiator is present as are each of three different propellers used. Many different options are available to the builder for engine and compartment detail and are also a build in itself. Patience is rewarded with as accurate a look at the business end as a modeler could want in plastic. Control surfaces are separate and pose with accuracy. Choice - choice - choice. There is much here to work with.

Construction

Starting with the cockpit items, wood floor, metal panels for rudder skids, clear doped linen sides as the factory streaked paint did not soak through. Brace wires were done with a sharp #4 pencil. The seat is stamped aluminum typically painted black or covered with thin stitched leather and a padded seat. Belts are beige canvas, metal buckled. Visible tube construction is painted a "Fokker Olive Grey" which was mixed. The control stick has rich wood handles and is two-grip as that is what pilots preferred. The instrument panel is excellent and detail painting of wood laminate and instruments was achieved using a tan base coat with a darker wood colored wash. Instrument faces picked out in white, a needle stroke and circled in black paint. Machine guns were left until final painting was done on the fuselage.
The floor piece, back "bulkhead", a framed, fabric stitch affair, were each sanded gently to conform to a shape to fit. A few test fittings and the rear fuselage assembly was ready to close and finalize. Putty and set aside to cure.
At this point, I just sat and stared at the engine compartment pieces and instructions. Ulp. Another reminder of failing eyesight and 10 thumbs….
Front Engine Compartment.
This is where this kit really shines and really challenges. It's plastic, not scale brass and certainly not real engine panels, so finesse of all the pieces is paramount. So is an understanding of the D.VII engine compartment and brazed tube framing, as you are going to become very well acquainted with that in fitting the engine to its compartment. The instruction sheet is helpful and so are online references, but any of the datafiles are even more helpful.
It's a bag of sticks, in 1/48. I have no idea how this would accomplish in any smaller scale.
I painted mine before assembly but would recommend doing so after assembly, stopping at some logical point prior to engine installation.
Consider carefully the status of your finished bird:
Is it to be top covers off? Then ignore them and finesse "the look" you need to obtain.
Is it to be all covers off? Then you must install the engine bearers and frame work almost free-form without benefit of knowing exactly where everything needs to locate.
Is it to be all covers on? Each one will need to be finessed to fit (as if they were engine panels rather than planks of plastic.
If you are doing your version with the side covers on, this is important:
The odd-shaped thin tubing you see in pairs duplicates what is already molded on the side covers. Do Not include these in your subassembly or your panels will be too thick to fit.
If you choose to do some variation of the above, trim the portion you need an install that.
Early Fokkers had fabric leading all the way up to the engine panel. I simulated this by trimming the panel off on the diagonal line at the juncture of front & rear panel. I installed the rear triangle on the port side and the complete panel on the starboard side.
You have three basic options: Completely open compartment, with all framing and all of the engine visible, partially closed but side panels off, partially closed but top panels off.
I chose "option four": Closed on the exhaust side, open on the port side, top panels removable. "Option Five", side panels removable, replaceable does not exist as the leading cabane will block you. There are advantages to going with one side (at least) closed. In looking at all the delicate pieces and the bottom cover for the engine, there seems no point of reference as to what is plumb. I used one of the covers to provide a ninety degree angle and a place to hang at least on side of the engine. From there, confidence obtained in orienting the engine bearers and the engine level. All would be visible with the option chosen. I pre-painted these tubed items and proceeded with CA. The radiator, surprisingly, went last. But I recommend test fitting for securing the orientation of the drive shaft in the circle completed by the addition of this radiator. A good reference would help visualize as much of the tubing runs in 3 axis. There are references online, notably a superb build by Ken Foran, entirely in brass to 1/16 scale.

After that cocoon, the wing halves seemed easy enough and they are. Care needs to be taken as you press halves such that you do not deflect the plastic into an atypical profile when securing these halves. The scalloped edges will need care to align but do so well. A word of advice that evidences much, much later in the build:
As per the attached image, the lower wing is weak and easily deflected down by the interplane struts at the final stages of assembly. A brass bar would strengthen nicely. Like a dodo, I of course, ignored every message in my mind that said "do this now". But I can recommend it with good humor and confidence. Much has been said about the crankiness of this kit but I find it most pleasurable and the struts spot on. The brass re-enforcement will take care of any final apprehensions.

Test fitting of the lower wing

The lower wing is quite thin and flexible. The fit to the fuse is very tight. Repeated fittings and finesse filing is necessary to obtain a glove fit such that the wings sit comfortably without imparting stressed anhedral. In addition, the leading edge plastic face -the front engine bulkhead- must be sanded so that the front engine assembly fits properly. It's easily enough accomplished and test fitting is key.

Wrapping up fiddly bits, paint and install cross bar above dash. Paint and install gundeck assembly. Putty front bulkhead, turtledeck, finesse sand. Finesse sand underseam but leave as a seam for later detailing to simulate Fokker stitching .

After covering both wings with lozenge, but not the tail assembly (in these early production examples), the wings were set aside until the scheme was finalized on the fuselage.

Painting & Lozenge decals

In that this is an Early Schwerin-built D.VII, the fuselage would be streaked. Accordingly, benefit from additional research is recommended. There are no known originals carrying this method of factory finish. The one extant original, the so-called Knowlton Fokker in Canada, is an Albatros-built, four color lozenge fabric covered example. The remainder exist in museums as restorations or replicas. They are all beautiful but unfortunately, though exhaustively researched, original streaked fabric evidence is lost.
The Streak:
Four types are thought to precede this aircraft. 1916 D.III & IV of two blended colors, D.V had a slightly different, translucent application, 1917 F1 triplanes were brownish olive either streaked over turquoise or blended with it and production Dr. 1 had wet blending of the following: A similar brown olive, as per above, olive and a brighter, purer green, dark green and grass greens. Period photos can not possibly distinguish these nuance but paint receipts are kept and consulted from the period. Lastly, the D.VII is likely two greens, however some aircraft were thought to also have streaks of blue or brownish olive. All on the same aircraft. You can choose for yourself. I whimped out after experimentation with blues and browns and settled happily into a Dr. 1 looking streak. However, obtaining it using acrylic paints and wet blending took practice. I ended up using a lot of water, a fair amount of dish soap and thinking "streak" and "craftsman, that day" and that's what came out of the brush. It's okay but I'd like to have it feel more like a scale four inch utility brush was used.
Would it be different next time around? Absolutely. This will either drive you up the wall or be fun, depending on your enjoyment of this sort of thing. It made it fun for me as I brush all my models and have no idea how to use an airbrush. So this truly is a brush job!
From, there, a turquoise was mixed from German blue #64. Stitching was painted along the fuselage underside and an opening created for the tail drag. A base coat of orange was laid down on the horizontal tail and rudder fin and the rest left for later. Meantime, I had no idea how to hand brush neat stripes. I threw myself on the tender mercies of Sanjeev Hirve to make some orange and blue decal sheets in order for me to proceed to Stripeville. Two pots of paint were mixed and shipped off to Sanjeev's workshop and two sheets of decals and unused paint returned. The fuselage orange stripes are decal as are all blue stripes. The horizontal tail and area below it on the fuselage are brushed. Touch-ups completed the illusion and the top orange stripe was hidden at the juncture of the tail to the fuse. Red Engine panels were next. After re-checking fit - the top ones are fussy - everything looked ready to mount up.
To expand on lozenge decals:
Recommend after-market here. Go with a known performer such as Eagle Strike, Pegasus or Americal/Gryphon, in no order of preference. I have used each and am very satisfied. The tapes are hand cut from A/G five color bolts and laid on one by one. Draw the blade such that you cut the cal but not the backing. Floor polish is a great sealer surface for these types of applications. Kleer/Future and some Solvaset for stubborn moments. Snuggles down and trims clean. Ailerons do not have tapes in D.VII's. Last, seeing the colors still a bit too bright, I went with some tinted Future on the cals - a tan mix to knock down the colors and mute them towards "period" look.
That finished, it was time to mount up. The top wing went thus: Interplanes first, on top wing, turn round and set down on lower wing. It's square so it's fairly straightforward.
At this point, when I went to install cabanes, the press of the interplanes had warped an anhedral into the lower and they were far too long. It took me a bit to understand the geometry, but once I did, I needed to do some odd hand-held lower tip tweak and strut placement, simultaneously. The first two, of 6 total cabanes would be key. It took three tries and an entire day of fooling about. But. Finally square - to the leading edge. Now for the trailing edge. Yikes. Not good. One try with kit supplied thin plastic showed enough bow for a banana and no way to correct the leaned trail edge. Out with brass tube, nip, nip, file, click, done.

I'd recommend the brass strengthener in that lower wing, folks. Then you have no worries.

Rest was pretty standard.
The wheels are able to rotate but I did not build them as such. The prop does also and that I did choose to pose differently on any whim.
The rigging is about as easy as it gets which is wonderful as I do not care much for rigging.
Remember the aileron cables near the pilot and rear cabane. Else is wonderfully unbraced.

Conclusion

This is Willi Gabriel's early Fokker, Schwerin-built #286/18. It's been modeled a fair amount, but I had difficulty finding a prettier looking early one or a more interesting backstory than the rebellious Vzfw. Gabriel. I happen to like the fact that he upset Herman Goring. And should probably leave it at that, in good taste. Willi was a wannabe, that's for sure. A festive looking bird for a festive acting pilot. Both Willi and his brother had wanted to fly since they were boys and Willi certainly got his wish. The last mount Gabriel flew was a BMW-engined D.VII the few days before Goring sent him packing. No idea what that aircraft looked like and likely, Herr Gabriel did not get a chance to drive some poor fitter crazy pointing at this and that. They say youth is wasted on the young but Willi cut his swath before Herman banned him from further hunts. Go Willi!

This is an excellent kit. I'd like to take this opportunity to pay respect to all D.VII builders before Roden and this kit whom used to create this early Schwerin-built, smooth paneled D.VII from scratch. Including the complex early exhaust pipes! By comparison, this rendition is a breeze. In any case, this is superior to the DML D.VII by a large margin.
As such, a total pleasure. Hats off as well to Roden. They have managed a very nice kit. However, it is not for the faint of heart. Bring your enthusiasm with you, at the least.

Thanks to Roden for the review kit.

Thank you to Sanjeev Hirve, Robert Baumgartner, Pedro Soares, Shane Weier and Fraser May for necessary assistance and consul in this build. Thanks to Matt Bittner for the kit and the invitation to contribute. Thanks to all my online pals. You make this more fun.

Every mistake is mine.

Sources

Fokker D.VII Anthologies No's. 1-3, Albatros Productions, Ltd.
Von Richthofen's Flying Circus, Windsock Fabric Special No. 1, Albatros Productions, Ltd.
Fokker D.VII Aces of World War 1 - Part 1, Osprey Publications
Various online sources, notably World War I Modeling Page
And The Aerodrome
The authors of these books may be found at the Aerodrome in the forum section.
Their expertise is a treasure.