Blue Max 1/48th Bristol M.1C
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History
"With the advantage of hindsight, many innovative aircraft designs
of "The Great War" seem to have been destined for greater things.
There is perhaps no stronger or more deserving contender for this accolade
than the Bristol M.1 Monoplane.
It is with that evocative word - monoplane - that the success and failure
of Frank Burwell's streamlined fighter pivoted around. Designed as a contemporary
to the equally radical DH5 biplane, the M.1 illustrates perfectly the
application of lateral thinking to a shared problem. Flying initially
in July 1916 with the Fokker Eindekker hardly out of the news, the M.1
achieved a speed of 132 mph with a 110 hp Clerget 9Z engine. With
styling not unlike the preceding Morane-Saulnier N & I types, the
M.1 shared the shoulder wing layout so necessary for the wing bracing
geometry. Barnwell disposed of the ageing wing warping for lateral control,
favoring the by now standard aileron method. Initially, cellon covered
panels were added at the wing roots to facilitate downward vision, although
these were soon substituted for the familiar cut outs for most production
versions. Evolving through the M.1A, B to the final M.1C, the Bristol
monoplane or "Bullet" as it was affectionately known was fitted
with the superior 110 hp Le Rhone rotary engine.
Although clearly a capable aircraft, the M.1 suffered from the official
discrimination against the monoplane layout. Only four years earlier the
War Office misguidedly banned the use of monoplanes by the RFC following
a number of fatal accidents. So influential was this "distrust"
that it was to persist well into the 1930's. By 1917 the Ministry had
decided that the M.1C's were to be used almost exclusively in the Middle
East. Serving in Palestine, Macedonia and Mesopotamia, official records
show that a paltry 35 aircraft were used operationally. The balance of
production of this advanced interceptor were relegated to training units;
sadly, with no squadron being equipped exclusively with this type."
-Christopher J.B. Gannon, October 2001"
Wish I could write so well. In event, that sums my attraction for this
aircraft since I was a boy. What an airplane! And it looks like a swallow
or a sparrow-hawk. Beyond this summary by Mr. Gannon, I do not know much
more. There are tidbits RE pilots such as McCudden having one at his disposal
as "personal mount" and one wonders how the RFC deemed the Camel
suitable for novice pilots while scoffing such as M.1C's
A Camel? An SE5a? A Fokker Dr 1 or D.VII? Perhaps not. But decisive in
1916?
I think so.
The Kit
Having
built a number of Blue Max kits, I can speak very well of this one. It
is beautifully thought through and well done. Starting with the plastic,
it is typical of limited-run injection mold: soft, big gates, some surface
anomaly. Big deal. The surface detail, as with many Blue Max kits,
is the best in the business. No one comes close. The metal bits are eccentric
and something of a slap in the face to a builder accustomed to "better".
Turns out, they function just fine and detail your model beautifully.
The Vickers, cockpit framing and engine are each beautifully done. The
engine challenges perhaps; it is 9 individual cylinders and a crank case
plus push rods in wire. It's own build, really and when done, you have
a little jewel. Their DH2 is similar, albeit a Monosoupape. The layout
is sensible: the fuselage has the stringers that fair the cowling molded
in and the cockpit framing is separate. Each of the rudimentary instrument
clusters are provided as are other arcania. The single wing is a whole
unit, middle turtle deck inclusive running the span. It's helpful as locating
the wings is no longer a bother. The cowling, nose piece are each metal
and the prop is plastic.
Wire
in pre-cut lengths is provided for the triple axle affair as well as the
king post for the structural rigging of the typical of monoplanes. Everything
else is pretty straight-forward, with some clean up, you are ready to
go. Not much flash. Some minor repair and finesse.
References of existing museum aircraft are almost mandatory. I went without
benefit of a data file but it would help. I went instead with online refs
and am pleased with the process.
It builds into exactly what the pictures of the real ones evidence.
Construction
Starting
with fuselage stringers, cockpit framework, floor and instrument clusters,
it's pretty straight-forward. Build a box. Everything was first painted
and then each side of the frame secured to the halves. As that set up,
the floor, seat, instruments and seat, next. When finished, I set about
an array of 9 cylinders around the crankcase of the rotary, using a toothpick
to hold the engine while it came together. Each of these cylinders needs
care when filing to get the jugs flat and even. Once that was completed,
set aside to let the CA harden.
Whenever I grow impatient with a sub-assembly, I'll move over to something
else - there always seems to be something to do, something that needs
tending to or smoothed or fit. Blue Max kits typically need a lot of test
fitting and finessing. It's not a big thing and kind of fun. Once all
the sub-assemblies are ready, closing up and mounting the single wing
is a breeze. Posed the control surfaces, finished up the cowl, fiddled
the prop spinner and prop to fit, dropped in the Vickers and set the king
posts. At this point, I stopped short of the undercarriage and painted
the entire aircraft, including the pieces of the u/c. Once satisfied,
I wiggled the u/c legs in place, set their angles and then began squinting
at the three wires that would be the axle. It looked like it would be
a big deal but it worked out fine. I left the wheels off until after decals
and rigging.
Painting and Rigging
I
had fun with this. This write up is for you brush painters out there.
The whole thing was done with paint and a brush. Three brushes, actually:
A broad-bullet #2 that is Old Trusty, a pointy thing that holds a lot
of paint as well as points like a needle and a flat beater I use for dry
brushing. I wanted to try some weathering techniques on this and a Camel
I had laying around almost finished since 1999
Nigel Rayner posted
his finished M.1C out on the WW1 modeler's list and Nigel is a brush painter
like me. I promptly e mailed him and got a few good suggestions and specific
recommendations, the requisite guff any modeler expects of another and
off I went, satisfied that They Also Brush Who Are Named Nigel or Diego.
A word on colors, paints:
MisterKit and Citadel acrylics. MisterKit for PC-12, Citadel for else.
Citadel makes two ranges I love for our hobby: A
tan
through brown range that's perfect for simming the woods used in these
aircraft and two metal colors, "Bolt Gun Metal" and "Mithril
Silver" that are excellent for metal things. The former is the midtone
color, the latter the highlight or "bright" look. Each has the
best combo of metal dust and well-behaved paint vehicle I've ever used
there
may be better, but am not aware of it in acrylic. Once you get past the
names, you're on your way. They're pretty goofy (and only some few will
be mentioned here). MisterKit makes an entire range of WW1 colors for
us. They are reputed to be well-researched and formulated. Odd enough,
on order, I rec'd two different hues of PC-12. One was what you'd expect
- a different drab color with some chocolaty tones, the other was what
I wanted: almost an oxide red, like boxcars. Nigel is the one that suggested
a very dark color, Citadel Scorched Brown, for a wash. He nailed it.
This
was my topside sequence: basecoat of MK PC-12, some minimal dry brushing
with a lighter mix to bring up the tape detail and other relief. Then
a complete slobber coat of very strong, but very watery and brushed until
I liked it, Scorched Brown. Scary, as it was dark as a chocolate closet
at that point. Stood to dry for a couple days. Back in with MK PC-12 dry
brushed to bring midtones back in, bring back some relief detail, a lighter
mix to highlight and called it good. Fun stuff, alarming at first and
satisfying finish.
Time
to do the bottomside. This began with a chase round the bench to mix a
blue I liked.
A light azure, soft, but not Fokker, not WW2, you know, once you have
it, you think you got it. Took a while. Basecoat with that color and then:
Skip the step above of a dark wash.
Dry brush hot, sandy weathering effects, sun-bleaching, sand-blasting,
oil streaks. The "worn-effect" on the longerons is basically
a CDL mix, dry brushed, finally almost to white touches in places. The
oil streaks are brush dabs of paint, thumbed to streak. If you don't like
them, moisten, do over. I used a few different colors for these. They
could be better but the over all effect sells well enough.
Some
may think this overdone. I had set out to do a heavily weathered, sun-baked
Bullet about mid-way in its service life. At this point, I still have
little idea or technique when it comes to weathering decals but am looking
forward to learning more about this. Pastels are something not tried.
Rigging was easy. I do not like doing it, but these few things made
it pleasurable and I shall rig from now on - ceramic wire, white glue.
Cutting the ceramic wire is literally a snap if you do it right. A cutting
matt, good #11 blade, one stroke. A thing to pass on to some of you that
may not know it - white glue is wonderful to work with. It sticks well
to each end and the best part is you can use a moist brush to finesse
both the glue join and position of each wire. It will re-soften the glue
and provide for perfect positioning.
Conclusion
The Bristol M.1C has always been a favorite. One wonders what it would
have done with Albatros fighters. It also looks like a rigger or fitter's
dream. Mechanics had easy access to its rotary. Visibility is wonderful
for a pilot. Blue Max thought so too and kitted this interesting aircraft.
Well done, it builds up pretty slick.
Thank you to Nigel Rayner for some paint tips, Diego Fernetti for a
fine scan of the Bullet in plan view and Sanjeev Hirve for ceramic wire.
Every mistake is mine.
Sources
Blue Max Productions
Various online sources, notably World
War I Modeling Page including their on-line images of the M.1C
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