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Blue Max 1/48th Bristol M.1C
 

Blue Max 1/48th Bristol M.1C

By Ken Schmitt

History

"With the advantage of hindsight, many innovative aircraft designs of "The Great War" seem to have been destined for greater things. There is perhaps no stronger or more deserving contender for this accolade than the Bristol M.1 Monoplane.

It is with that evocative word - monoplane - that the success and failure of Frank Burwell's streamlined fighter pivoted around. Designed as a contemporary to the equally radical DH5 biplane, the M.1 illustrates perfectly the application of lateral thinking to a shared problem. Flying initially in July 1916 with the Fokker Eindekker hardly out of the news, the M.1 achieved a speed of 132 mph with a 110 hp Clerget 9Z engine. With styling not unlike the preceding Morane-Saulnier N & I types, the M.1 shared the shoulder wing layout so necessary for the wing bracing geometry. Barnwell disposed of the ageing wing warping for lateral control, favoring the by now standard aileron method. Initially, cellon covered panels were added at the wing roots to facilitate downward vision, although these were soon substituted for the familiar cut outs for most production versions. Evolving through the M.1A, B to the final M.1C, the Bristol monoplane or "Bullet" as it was affectionately known was fitted with the superior 110 hp Le Rhone rotary engine.
Although clearly a capable aircraft, the M.1 suffered from the official discrimination against the monoplane layout. Only four years earlier the War Office misguidedly banned the use of monoplanes by the RFC following a number of fatal accidents. So influential was this "distrust" that it was to persist well into the 1930's. By 1917 the Ministry had decided that the M.1C's were to be used almost exclusively in the Middle East. Serving in Palestine, Macedonia and Mesopotamia, official records show that a paltry 35 aircraft were used operationally. The balance of production of this advanced interceptor were relegated to training units; sadly, with no squadron being equipped exclusively with this type."
-Christopher J.B. Gannon, October 2001"

Wish I could write so well. In event, that sums my attraction for this aircraft since I was a boy. What an airplane! And it looks like a swallow or a sparrow-hawk. Beyond this summary by Mr. Gannon, I do not know much more. There are tidbits RE pilots such as McCudden having one at his disposal as "personal mount" and one wonders how the RFC deemed the Camel suitable for novice pilots while scoffing such as M.1C's…
A Camel? An SE5a? A Fokker Dr 1 or D.VII? Perhaps not. But decisive in 1916?
I think so.

The Kit

Having built a number of Blue Max kits, I can speak very well of this one. It is beautifully thought through and well done. Starting with the plastic, it is typical of limited-run injection mold: soft, big gates, some surface anomaly. Big deal. The surface detail, as with many Blue Max kits, is the best in the business. No one comes close. The metal bits are eccentric and something of a slap in the face to a builder accustomed to "better". Turns out, they function just fine and detail your model beautifully. The Vickers, cockpit framing and engine are each beautifully done. The engine challenges perhaps; it is 9 individual cylinders and a crank case plus push rods in wire. It's own build, really and when done, you have a little jewel. Their DH2 is similar, albeit a Monosoupape. The layout is sensible: the fuselage has the stringers that fair the cowling molded in and the cockpit framing is separate. Each of the rudimentary instrument clusters are provided as are other arcania. The single wing is a whole unit, middle turtle deck inclusive running the span. It's helpful as locating the wings is no longer a bother. The cowling, nose piece are each metal and the prop is plastic.
Wire in pre-cut lengths is provided for the triple axle affair as well as the king post for the structural rigging of the typical of monoplanes. Everything else is pretty straight-forward, with some clean up, you are ready to go. Not much flash. Some minor repair and finesse.
References of existing museum aircraft are almost mandatory. I went without benefit of a data file but it would help. I went instead with online refs and am pleased with the process.
It builds into exactly what the pictures of the real ones evidence.

Construction

Starting with fuselage stringers, cockpit framework, floor and instrument clusters, it's pretty straight-forward. Build a box. Everything was first painted and then each side of the frame secured to the halves. As that set up, the floor, seat, instruments and seat, next. When finished, I set about an array of 9 cylinders around the crankcase of the rotary, using a toothpick to hold the engine while it came together. Each of these cylinders needs care when filing to get the jugs flat and even. Once that was completed, set aside to let the CA harden.
Whenever I grow impatient with a sub-assembly, I'll move over to something else - there always seems to be something to do, something that needs tending to or smoothed or fit. Blue Max kits typically need a lot of test fitting and finessing. It's not a big thing and kind of fun. Once all the sub-assemblies are ready, closing up and mounting the single wing is a breeze. Posed the control surfaces, finished up the cowl, fiddled the prop spinner and prop to fit, dropped in the Vickers and set the king posts. At this point, I stopped short of the undercarriage and painted the entire aircraft, including the pieces of the u/c. Once satisfied, I wiggled the u/c legs in place, set their angles and then began squinting at the three wires that would be the axle. It looked like it would be a big deal but it worked out fine. I left the wheels off until after decals and rigging.

Painting and Rigging

I had fun with this. This write up is for you brush painters out there. The whole thing was done with paint and a brush. Three brushes, actually: A broad-bullet #2 that is Old Trusty, a pointy thing that holds a lot of paint as well as points like a needle and a flat beater I use for dry brushing. I wanted to try some weathering techniques on this and a Camel I had laying around almost finished since 1999…Nigel Rayner posted his finished M.1C out on the WW1 modeler's list and Nigel is a brush painter like me. I promptly e mailed him and got a few good suggestions and specific recommendations, the requisite guff any modeler expects of another and off I went, satisfied that They Also Brush Who Are Named Nigel or Diego.

A word on colors, paints:
MisterKit and Citadel acrylics. MisterKit for PC-12, Citadel for else. Citadel makes two ranges I love for our hobby: A tan through brown range that's perfect for simming the woods used in these aircraft and two metal colors, "Bolt Gun Metal" and "Mithril Silver" that are excellent for metal things. The former is the midtone color, the latter the highlight or "bright" look. Each has the best combo of metal dust and well-behaved paint vehicle I've ever used…there may be better, but am not aware of it in acrylic. Once you get past the names, you're on your way. They're pretty goofy (and only some few will be mentioned here). MisterKit makes an entire range of WW1 colors for us. They are reputed to be well-researched and formulated. Odd enough, on order, I rec'd two different hues of PC-12. One was what you'd expect - a different drab color with some chocolaty tones, the other was what I wanted: almost an oxide red, like boxcars. Nigel is the one that suggested a very dark color, Citadel Scorched Brown, for a wash. He nailed it.

This was my topside sequence: basecoat of MK PC-12, some minimal dry brushing with a lighter mix to bring up the tape detail and other relief. Then a complete slobber coat of very strong, but very watery and brushed until I liked it, Scorched Brown. Scary, as it was dark as a chocolate closet at that point. Stood to dry for a couple days. Back in with MK PC-12 dry brushed to bring midtones back in, bring back some relief detail, a lighter mix to highlight and called it good. Fun stuff, alarming at first and satisfying finish.

Time to do the bottomside. This began with a chase round the bench to mix a blue I liked.
A light azure, soft, but not Fokker, not WW2, you know, once you have it, you think you got it. Took a while. Basecoat with that color and then: Skip the step above of a dark wash.
Dry brush hot, sandy weathering effects, sun-bleaching, sand-blasting, oil streaks. The "worn-effect" on the longerons is basically a CDL mix, dry brushed, finally almost to white touches in places. The oil streaks are brush dabs of paint, thumbed to streak. If you don't like them, moisten, do over. I used a few different colors for these. They could be better but the over all effect sells well enough.

Some may think this overdone. I had set out to do a heavily weathered, sun-baked Bullet about mid-way in its service life. At this point, I still have little idea or technique when it comes to weathering decals but am looking forward to learning more about this. Pastels are something not tried.

Rigging was easy. I do not like doing it, but these few things made it pleasurable and I shall rig from now on - ceramic wire, white glue. Cutting the ceramic wire is literally a snap if you do it right. A cutting matt, good #11 blade, one stroke. A thing to pass on to some of you that may not know it - white glue is wonderful to work with. It sticks well to each end and the best part is you can use a moist brush to finesse both the glue join and position of each wire. It will re-soften the glue and provide for perfect positioning.

Conclusion

The Bristol M.1C has always been a favorite. One wonders what it would have done with Albatros fighters. It also looks like a rigger or fitter's dream. Mechanics had easy access to its rotary. Visibility is wonderful for a pilot. Blue Max thought so too and kitted this interesting aircraft. Well done, it builds up pretty slick.

Thank you to Nigel Rayner for some paint tips, Diego Fernetti for a fine scan of the Bullet in plan view and Sanjeev Hirve for ceramic wire.

Every mistake is mine.

Sources

Blue Max Productions
Various online sources, notably World War I Modeling Page including their on-line images of the M.1C