Polikarpov's design signature during the mid and late 1930s was a stubby,
barrel-shaped fighter. The primary machine during that era was the I-15
biplane. Like their barrel-shaped brothers on the other side of the world,
the Grumman F3Fs, the I-15 was going to be transformed almost directly
into a monoplane fighter, the I-16. In the transformation, the I-15's
upper wing was deleted and the lower wing moved up to almost a mid-fuselage
mount. With a wingspan one meter shorter than the I-15, the early I-16
was powered by the same 700hp M-25 radial engine as the late-model I-15.
The I-16 also incorporated retractable landing gear. Armament for the
early I-16 was a pair of 7.62mm machine guns
The I-16 Type 10 was the version that was produced in the largest numbers.
The main differences between the Type 10 and earlier I-16 versions were
the addition of two additional 7.62mm machine guns (for a total of four),
and the adoption of the M-25V producing 750hp.
The
Type 10 saw combat on two fronts in the late 1930s, first in the Spanish
Civil War and later with the Chinese against Japan. In Spain, the early
Bf109s flown by the Nationalists were surprised by the agile I-16 and
suffered losses to the 'Rata' (Rat) as they nicknamed it. The Japanese
forces were also surprised by the agile I-16 until they finally discovered
and exploited the I-16's weaknesses.
By the time the Nazi violated the peace treaty between the Soviet Union
and Germany, the I-16 was obsolete. Nonetheless, the I-16 soldiered on
into 1943 before being completely phased out of service. One of the most
famous tactics flown by Soviet pilots in 1941 was ramming their I-16s
into the tails of German aircraft, then either limping back to base or
parachuting to safety.
The Kit
Academy has released the I-16 Type 10 in 1/48 scale. While nearly identical
to the Hobbycraft kit, the Academy offering has all of the parts for the
various versions of the I-16 included in one box, including the winter
skis, updated cowl face, rocket rails and a tailwheel. Though some of
these parts were only used on later types of the I-16, you have the flexibility
to build a later model Polikarpov if you want.
I
built the Hobbycraft 1/48 I-16 Type 10 a few years ago and really enjoyed
the kit. It unfortunately fell victim to the movers when I relocated to
the mid-West last year, so I was delighted to see this kit arrive in the
mail from MRC. As with the first I-16, I decided to build the Type 10
as it appeared in the Spanish Civil War.
Coming out of the box, the kit is flash-free and also free of ejector
pin marks in visible places. I painted the cockpit interior light grey
and assembled the kit per instructions. There is very little detail in
the kit cockpit, but even the instrument panel is not visible through
the cockpit opening once the fuselage goes together. I decided to cut
out the hinged entry door (ala Spitfire) so there would be more of an
opening to look through, but this didn't make much difference on the interior
detail. The one item that is very visible is the pilot's seat, so I added
photo-etched seatbelts and shoulder harnesses.
I
decided that I wanted the aircraft to sit in a more natural pose, so I
separated the rudder from the fuselage halves and the elevators from the
horizontal stabilizer halves before assembly got underway. I also decided
to replace the exhaust stubs molded into the fuselage and lower wing half
with weathered brass tubing. I installed the brass tubing with cyano at
the time.
The fuselage goes together easily with no need for filler. Likewise,
the wings go together without any problems. The only real work is the
fuselage-wing joints on the underside and at the wing roots. A little
cyano and wet/dry sanding sticks made short work of the problem.
The engine is nicely detailed, and accepts paint detailing/highlighting
very well, but it is all-but-invisible when the cowl face is installed.
Pity, but that is how it was with the full-scale aircraft as well.
The
rest of the kit assembly is straightforward. I did replace the wing-mounted
machine gun barrels with brass wire. I also used brass wire at the hinge-points
for the rudder and elevators to install these control surfaces. The wire
allows you to bend (pose) the flight controls into whatever position works
for you.
The one detail missing from the kit is the landing gear retraction
system - cables coming from the wheel wells to the landing gear axles.
The cable was a simple way for the pilot to crank the landing gear up,
while I suspect gravity took care of gear extension. I discovered this
little detail while examining some old I-16 photos - while most are too
fuzzy to pick out details, there were a few good examples to work from.
For this detail, I simply drilled holes into the center of each wheel
well and the center of each axle, and installed thin fishing line with
cyano into the holes.
Painting and markings
The
Academy folks provide markings for Republican Air Force I-16 CM-177 with
the 'Popeye' logo on the tail, Soviet Air Force trainer 'Red 4', and a
ski-equipped I-16 in winter camouflage. The markings for the last example
is interesting in that they represent an aircraft whose rudder had been
replaced and had a mis-matched red star as a result. Nice!
Nonetheless, I still enjoyed the look of the Spanish Civil War aircraft.
The paint scheme is very simple - Green FS 34102 over Light Blue FS 35550.
Academy provides the red wing tips and fuselage band as decals, but I
decided to mask and shoot these areas with Insignia Red. When the paint
had dried, I applied a coat of Future and let the bird dry.
The
decals went on with Micro Sol with no problems. I applied a dull coat
over the completed model and a touch of light grime weathering to get
that 'used' look. I used RustAll bottles 1 and 4 on the outside of the
brass tube exhaust stubs and flat black on the inside of the stubs. The
resulting exhaust stacks are eye-catching and add to the 'rode hard and
put away wet' look that combat aircraft can get in the field. My final
step was to install the windscreen, which had been safely stashed away.
Conclusions
This kit is a nice replica of the I-16, and Academy did well by adding
all of the marking and detail options into the one kit. I feel the need
to do a ski-equipped I-16 in the near future! I recommend this kit to
any builder - there are no hidden problems or special skills required
to build it out of the box. The more experienced modeler will want to
play with detail variations as this kit will serve as a solid basis for
some scratch-detailing.